 The mid-morning train from Colombo, in Tea Country.
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See Sri Lanka by train
Sri Lanka is a fabulous place, safe, friendly and remarkably hassle-free. Sri Lanka's railways are a great way to get around and a real cultural experience. The most scenic routes will be highlights of your visit, in particular the wonderful journey from Colombo to Kandy and up into Tea Country and the coastal train from Colombo to Dutch colonial Galle. British visitors will find the stations, signal boxes and old red semaphore signals very familiar! This page is a beginner's guide to train travel in Sri Lanka.
Train times & fares for key routes
Colombo - Kandy -
Nuwara Eliya - Elle - Badulla
Colombo - Galle -
Matara: The Coast Line
Colombo - Polonnaruwa,
Batticaloa, Trincomalee
Colombo - Anuradhapura
- Talaimannar/Jaffna
Colombo commuter: Negombo, Mount Laviniya,
Kalutara, Puttalam, Avissawella
Sri Lanka railway information
How to check train times & prices
Colombo Fort station & how to find your train
What are Sri Lankan trains like?
A journey in
pictures, Colombo to Nuwara Eliya
Video:
Colombo to Tea Country by train
Other useful information
Useful country information: visas,
time zone...
Recommended hotels in Colombo & Sri
Lanka
Travel insurance, mobile data packages, VPN
Useful country information
Interactive train map
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© OpenStreetMap contributors, available under the creative commons licence. |
How to check train times & fares
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On this page you'll find timetables & fares for the most popular trains, stations & routes:
Colombo - Kandy - Hatton - Nuwara Eliya - Elle - Badulla
Colombo - Galoya - Polonnaruwa, Batticaloa, Trincomalee
Colombo - Anuradhapura - Talaimannar/Vavuniya - Jaffna
Colombo commuter: Negombo, Mt Laviniya, Kalutara, Puttalam, Avissawella
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You can check train times between any two stations at www.railway.gov.lk, the official Sri Lanka Railways website. Click English, then click the pink Train schedule button and use the journey planner.
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You can also try www.lktrains.com & slr.malindaprasad.com, but don't be surprised if data differs slightly! Or download an app, try Sri Lanka Trains for iPhone.
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Most of these sites only handle direct trains, so don't expect them to tell you how to get from (say) Kandy to Galle except on the once a day direct train. And they may only show trains as having 2nd & 3rd class even if they also have 1st - although relatively few trains offer 1st class. And the two sites sometimes disagree, so always double-check times locally.
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For a detailed zoomable map of the Sri Lanka train network on openstreetmap.com, click here.
Interactive route mapClick a route for train times & fares
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© OpenStreetMap contributors, available under the creative commons licence. |
Tickets for unreserved cars
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Sri Lanka Railways 2nd & 3rd class unreserved cars cannot be booked in advance.
Tickets are only sold on the day at the ticket office, sometimes from only an hour before departure. Turn up, buy a ticket and hop on, it's easy. Tickets cannot sell out.
Virtually all trains have unreserved cars. The unreserved cars are often crowded, whether you get a seat depends on whether you're joining at the starting station or en route, and how busy that day or time is. If all seats are taken you stand, ideally wedged in an open doorway with a breeze wafting in and great views.
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At Colombo Fort station, specific ticket windows are designated for specific routes:
- Counter 1 for Anuradhapura, Vavuniya, Talaimannar & Jaffna.
- Counters 2 or 8 for Kandy, Hatton, Nanuoya, Haputale, Elle, Badulla.
- Counter 3 for Batticaloa or Trincomalee.
- Counter 4 for any station, 1st & 2nd class tickets only.
- Counters 13 or 14 for Galle & Matara.
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On the Colombo-Galle-Matara route, virtually all seats are unreserved so pre-booking is neither necessary nor possible. The same goes for all Colombo Commuter trains including the Puttalam & Avissawella lines.
Tip: Many trains to Galle & Matara start at Colombo Maradana station before calling at the main Colombo Fort station. Rather than board at Colombo Fort when most of the seats will already be taken, if you board at Colombo Maradana you stand a good chance of getting a good seat on the coastal (right hand) side of the train.
Tickets for reserved cars
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What is a reserved car?
Many important longer-distance trains have a designated 2nd class reserved car and sometimes a 3rd class reserved car, in addition to the many unreserved cars. Some trains have a 1st class car and 1st class seats are always reserved.
Seats in these reserved cars can be booked up to 30 days in advance - increased from 10 to 45 days in 2013, then reduced to 30 in 2016.
If you buy a ticket for a reserved car you are guaranteed a seat, and a specific seat number will be printed on your ticket. The reserved cars are jealously guarded by an attendant, indeed he may lock off some exterior & gangway doors to control access, and there are no standees allowed - so reserved cars aren't crowded.
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Demand for reserved seats exceeds supply
Tickets for the reserved cars often sell out, so it's a good idea to buy tickets in advance before you get to Sri Lanka as explained in the next section.
Seats in 1st class observation cars & the air-con 1st class car on the blue trains from Colombo to Kandy & Badulla usually sell out almost as soon as booking opens as do 1st class sleeping berths on all the Night Mail trains. 2nd class reserved cars also sell out well in advance on the Hill Country trains from Colombo to Kandy & Badulla, so book ahead.
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If you are told that a train is full...
...this only means that the reserved cars have sold out. You can still buy an unreserved ticket at the station on the day for the 2nd & 3rd class unreserved cars, these cannot sell out. So you can still travel on that train, just without a reserved seat.
Tip: If 2nd class reserved is sold out, ask for a 3rd class reserved ticket (if available). A reserved seat in 3rd is much better than standing in 2nd unreserved.
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At Colombo Fort...
...you can buy tickets for 1st, 2nd or 3rd class reserved seat cars at the Berth/Intercity Reservations Office at Colombo Fort, marked counter 17, accessed from the front of the station towards the left hand end of the station facade. Inside the office there are separate counters for specific routes. According to the Sri Lanka Railways website it's open 05:00-14:00, closed for lunch 12:30-13:30, but I have found it open as late as 17:00. Go figure, as the Americans say.
The Railway Tourist Information Office at the front of Colombo Fort sells expensive tours, but not train tickets, so don't bother with this.
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In Kandy, you can make reservations at ticket office counters 1 & 2, marked as the Intercity counter.
How to buy tickets
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Option 1, buy online at 12go.asia.
You can order Sri Lanka train tickets from 12go.asia, a reliable agency specialising in bus & train ticket booking throughout Asia, already popular for train bookings Thailand & Vietnam.
For some trains they offer e-tickets with instant confirmation, for others you'll get confirmation within 24h and hard copy tickets have to be delivered to your hotel or collected from their partner's office. It will say which applies when you click on a train.
12go.asia have programmed their site with all the most popular station to station journeys including Colombo to or from the main tourist destinations of Kandy, Nanuoya & Ella, but not every possible station to station pair. Also remember that only reserved seat tickets can be ordered, unreserved tickets must be bought at the station on the day.
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Option 2, seatreservation.railway.gov.lk/mtktwebslr. This is a new ticket booking service from Sri Lankan Railways. A test booking shows it accepts overseas credit cards, further feedback welcome. It allows online booking, vouchers must be exchanged for an actual ticket at the station.
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Option 3, VisitSriLankaTours. Another recommended agency is visitsrilankatours.co.uk/train-tickets-1.html. I have had numerous positive reports from people who have used them, and I have used them myself. Tickets can be collected at most major railway stations.
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Option 4, Tourmastertravelservices. Another agency with an easy-to-use website with a page for ordering train tickets is tourmastertravelservices.com. I have had at least two very positive reports about Tourmaster so far, more feedback would be appreciated.
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Remember these websites and agencies only make bookings for 'reserved' cars. Even if you're told the train is 'fully booked', you can always buy a ticket on the day and travel 'unreserved', see the explanation above.
Colombo Fort station
Opened in 1917, Colombo Fort is Colombo's main station, right in the heart of the historic Fort area, walking distance from all the sights. All mainline & commuter trains go from here. Colombo has a second main station one stop (2 km) to the east called Maradana, most but not all trains stop here, but Colombo Fort is the best-located station to use. See a map of Colombo showing stations.
How to find your train
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Sri Lankan Railways don't excel at customer information, they don't have platform departure indicators nor do the trains themselves carry any destination boards. So always check which platform your train leaves from as you enter the station.
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At Colombo Fort there's one main electronic departures & arrivals board, pictured below left, it's very easy to miss as it's directly above and behind your head when you walk onto platform 3 through the main ticket barrier next to ticket counters 7, 8 & 9. This will tell you which platform to go to, but remember if you're going to Galle your train may be shown as going to its final destination, Matara, and if you're going to Hatton, Nanuoya, Haputale or Elle your train will probably be shown as going to Badulla.
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At most other stations there's a more low-tech solution to tell you the platform to go to, like the board at Nanuoya station below right.
Luggage, food & other tips
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You simply take your luggage with you onto the train and put it on the overhead racks above your seat. The overhead racks will take anything up to a large backpack or hefty roll-along size. A huge suitcase - if you insisted on travelling around Sri Lanka with such a thing - would just go on the floor. Luggage isn't usually an issue, nobody weighs it or worries about what you take.
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A handful of trains including the Chinese-built blue trains and most Night Mails have a small buffet counter with limited stock - crisps, fizzy drinks, and hot sweet tea. However, if you are in a reserved car the gangway doors to the rest of the train may be locked, so don't assume you'll be able to get to the buffet. It's best to bring your own food & drink. It's hot and humid in Sri Lanka, so always travel with plenty of bottled water. You may find vendors wandering down the train, but don't rely on this - though if you see the tea wallah, flag him down for a cup of lovely hot sweet tea, 40 rupees (20p) or so per cup.
What are Sri Lankan trains like?
2nd & 3rd class on classic trains
1st class observation cars, Colombo to Tea
Country
Chinese blue train, Colombo
to Kandy & Tea Country
S11 diesel trains from Colombo to Galle & Matara
2nd & 3rd class in newer cars on the
northern lines
Night Mail 2nd & 3rd class sleeperetts
Classic trains with 2nd & 3rd class seats
The typical Sri Lankan mainline train has 2nd & 3rd class unreserved seats in elderly brown coaches like this. Doors and windows usually remain wide open, the trains seldom exceed 50mph.
1st class observation car
A 1st class observation car is attached to the rear of train 1007/1008 on the amazingly scenic route from Colombo to Hatton, Nanuoya, Elle, Haputale & Badulla, and to several other trains on that route, see the timetable here. It has comfortable (if old) reserved seats facing large rear windows looking back along the track. It's very popular & usually gets fully-booked, so book ahead. Some of these observation cars are not air-conditioned so the side windows open, ideal for viewing & photography. However, some cars now have air-conditioning, yours may or may not have. Don't expect any catering, so bring your own food & drink. Luggage goes on overhead racks above your seat, or on the floor.
The Man in Seat 61 says "If you can get tickets for it, the 1st class observation car is the best way to experience and photograph the journey from Colombo up into Tea Country. The excellent view back along the track gives an unrivalled picture of how this wonderful railway is constructed, often hugging the hillside with overhanging rocks..."
The Chinese-built blue trains
Introduced in 2012, these modern Chinese-built class S12 trains operate the daily Podi Menike and Udatara Menike trains between Colombo, Kandy, Tea Country and Badulla, see the timetable here. There's a power car and driving cab at each end of the train, between which there's one 1st class air-conditioned reserved seats car, one 2nd class reserved car, two 2nd class unreserved cars, three 3rd class unreserved cars (one with a small buffet counter) and one 3rd class reserved car. 2nd & 3rd class cars are not air-conditioned and come with large opening windows. Luggage up to back-pack sized fits on the overhead racks, or in the 2nd class cars there's also a floor to ceiling luggage rack for larger items.
The Man in Seat 61 says: "These blue trains are way ahead of other Sri Lankan trains in comfort - although if you can get a seat in it, a 1st class observation car on a classic train would still be my first choice for a journey into the hills. But a seat in the 2nd class reserved car on a blue train would be my next choice."
Tip 1: The air-conditioned first class car (AFC) is almost up to western standards, with fabric reclining seats, seat-back tables & ceiling-hung video screens, fortunately with no sound. So if you absolutely insist on air-conditioned western-style comfort, this is the way to go. But before you make a knee-jerk decision to go first class, think it through. In the AFC car you are sealed in behind small and slightly grubby windows and you won't experience the journey fully. You can't take decent scenery photos unless you nip to one of the inward-opening entrance doors. You will experience the scenery far better in 2nd class reserved seats with their large open windows.
Tip 2: The second class reserved car (SCR) is great option, with comfy seats, armrests & drop-down seatback tables, and a breeze wafting in through open windows. If you find the SCR car fully-booked, a seat in the 3rd class reserved car (TCR) is a good alternative, so don't knock it - you are better off with a guaranteed seat in the uncrowded 3rd class reserved car with no standees allowed than without a seat in a full-and-standing 2nd class unreserved car.
Tip 3: Avoid waiting at the wrong end of the platform, especially at an intermediate station such as Nanuoya or Elle! The AFC & SCR cars on these trains are usually at the Colombo (West) end of the train between Colombo and Kandy, and at the Badulla (East) end of the train between Kandy & Badulla - these trains have a driving cab at both ends and change direction at Kandy, which is a terminus. So at Colombo Fort when you walk off the forecourt onto the platform, look to your right and the AFC & SCR cars will be towards that end of the platform. When you board at Kandy, the AFC & SCR cars will usually be furthest from the buffer stops.
Tip 4: You usually board the AFC or SCR cars through the AFC doorway next to the SCR - the attendant may have locked other exterior doors to control access to the reserved cars. Similarly, the internal gangway door between the AFC/SCR cars and the rest of the train will probably be locked, so don't expect to visit the buffet. Bring your own food & drink, although the tea wallah has been known to make it into the 2nd reserved car - that hot sweet tea is lovely, do try it!
S11 diesel trains
Introduced in 2011, these trains operate key departures on the Colombo-Galle-Matara route - other departures are classic trains. They have 2nd & 3rd class unreserved seats, with a power car at one end and a driving cab at both ends. Like most Sri Lankan trains, the doors normally remain wide open while the train is moving. The 2nd class seats are comfortable and have drop down tables and armrests.
Newer 2nd & 3rd class trains
Sri Lankan Railways has some newer Chinese-built cars like this, which you'll usually find on the northern routes, for example certain trains from Colombo to Jaffna, Talaimannar & Batticaloa. A big improvement on the classic trains.
Night Mail 1st class berths
A 1st class sleeping-car is attached to a handful of Night Mail trains. The cars have lockable 2-berth compartments with separate toilet & washbasin. The cars are old, fairly basic and a tad grubby, so manage expectations accordingly, but they are comfortable enough with clean bedding provided. There's only one sleeping-car per train, they are very popular and usually get fully-booked soon after bookings open. So book ahead, and have a plan B if you can't get a sleeper. Pictured below is the distinctly-Indian design of sleeper on the Night Mail from Colombo to Badulla.
Night Mail 2nd & 3rd class sleeperetts
Sleeperetts are reserved seats which recline to about 30-40 degrees. Night Mail trains typically have one 2nd class reserved sleeperett car, one 3rd class reserved sleeperett car, and several unreserved 2nd & 3rd class regular seats cars.
Colombo - Kandy - Badulla
The train ride from Colombo to Kandy and up into the tea plantations of Sri Lanka's hill country is truly wonderful, not just transportation but a classic journey that's easily the best train ride in Sri Lanka. I recommend a reserved seat in the 1st class observation car if you can get one, failing that a seat in the 2nd or 3rd class reserved cars on one of the excellent new Chinese-built blue trains. See the journey from Colombo to Nuwara Eliya in pictures & watch the video!
Sri Lanka Railways regularly tweaks its timetable, so check current times as shown here
* Train 1005/1006 is the PODI MENIKE, modern Chinese-built blue train, recommended.
** Train 1015/1016 is the UDARATA MENIKE, modern Chinese-built blue train, recommended.
** Train 1041/1042 is the ELLA ODYSSEY, modern Chinese-built blue train of latest type, recommended.
O = 1st class observation car with reserved seats, may or may not be air-conditioned, recommended.
1 = 1st class air-conditioned car with reserved seats.
2 = 2nd class seats.
3 = 3rd class seats.
Sleeper = NIGHT MAIL with 1st class sleepers (2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperetts (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats.
Always check train times for your date of travel as shown here, and check all times locally.
How to buy tickets, reserved & unreserved explained Luggage & other tips Suggested hotels in Colombo, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya
Peradeniya Junction is 6 km (3½ miles) from Kandy. Take a tuk-tuk or bus here to board trains for Hatton, Nanuoya, Elle & Badulla if they don't call at Kandy.
Several trains a day link Kandy & Matale, check times as shown here. Kandy is essentially a terminus, but platform 1 is a through platform used by Matale trains.
£1 = approx 400 rupees, $1 = 320 rupees. The prices shown are for the best Chinese blue trains, slower trains may be cheaper.
Children under under 3 travel free, 3 & over pay the adult fare. Sleeperetts on the Night Mail train costs the same as a reserved seat.
Nuwara Eliya
Nuwara Eliya (the City of lights) is a colonial hill station 2,000 metres above sea level, surrounded by tea plantations It's easy to reach, just take a train to Nanuoya station, 6 km from central Nuwara Eliya. You'll find plenty of taxis and tuk tuks available at the station.
What's the journey like? See it in pictures & watch the video!
Kandy station
Visiting Kandy
Traveller's reports
Traveller Antony Smith reports "All the windows in the 1st observation car opened fully so, though it was a baking hot day, the carriage was wonderfully breezy and naturally cooled. And yes there are only two pairs of seats with uninterrupted views through the rear observation window, but to be honest the best views are to the sides anyway rather than back down the track. And there's a great child-like pleasure to be had from sticking your head out of an open side window, which you can't do in the seats directly in front of the rear observation window. I do agree about not wanting to be locked into a 'tour bus' environment with only other tourists for company, but passengers in the 1st observation car on the day we travelled were a real mix of Westerners and Sri Lankans."
Traveller Graeme Thorley reports "I thought the observation car to Kandy was okay although it requires you to travel backwards (in my case at least) which is not to everyone's taste. It also got incredibly hot (36°C at one point) due to the large window and there were only a limited number of seats that had a really good view. Rather irritatingly on my outbound trip two of these were occupied by people who slept for most of the trip..! The other point is that the carriage was occupied almost entirely by Westerners - this might be considered a good thing but personally I felt it left me more remote from the travelling experience. On the train to Anuradhapura several locals stopped to chat, practise their English, exchange complaints about the delays etc. I also bumped into one of the families I had met on the train whilst sightseeing (they recognised me) and we had another chat. I find that sort of thing an important part of travelling."
Traveller Paul White reports "Don’t panic if you can’t get a ticket for the 1st class air conditioned trains to Kandy. 2nd class is more than adequate, but do try & get a window seat. The best side to sit on for scenery is the right hand side as you face forward from Colombo to Kandy, as this will give you the best views once you get past Rambukkana. Do be brave and try the food on the trains! Many vendors will wander up and down selling cold drinks, fruit, spicy snacks and so on at reasonable prices."
Colombo - Galle - Matara
Galle - pronounced Gawl in English or Gaar-ler by the locals, is a real gem and the fort area with its Dutch colonial buildings should not be missed. Plan to stay there if you can - see some suggested hotels here - but if you can't then at least do a day trip to Galle from Colombo. The best way to get to Galle is by train, using the coastal railway which runs all along the coast from Colombo, past the Indian Ocean surf, palms and beaches. A treat!
Sri Lanka Railways regularly tweaks its timetables, so check current times as shown here.
Unless shown otherwise, trains run every day. Suggested hotels in Colombo & Galle
* = Train 8056/8057 is a Chinese-built Blue Train of the latest sort delivered 2019.
2 = unreserved 2nd class seats.
3 = unreserved 3rd class seats.
Most trains on this route are classic trains, but several afternoon departures from Colombo & several morning departures from Matara & Galle are S11 diesel units.
Many additional Colombo Commuter trains link Colombo with Mount Lavinia & Kalutara South, these aren't shown here.
Always check train times for your date of travel as shown here, and double-check train times locally.
£1 = approx 400 rupees, $1 = 320 rupees.
Children under under 3 travel free, 3 & over pay the adult fare.
How to buy tickets
One train per day on the Colombo-Galle-Matara route has an all-reserved 1st class car which needs to be booked in advance, but all other trains just have 2nd & 3rd class unreserved seats with tickets sold on the day of travel, no reserved seats, no 1st class. Turn up, buy a ticket at the station and hop on. Tickets cannot sell out!
Tip: Rather than board at Colombo Fort when most of the seats may already be taken, if you board at Colombo Maradana you stand a good chance of getting a seat, even a good seat on the coastal (right hand) side of the train.
A train ride from Colombo to Galle
Galle station
Visiting the old fort area in Galle
Colombo - Trincomalee / Batticaloa
The train to the east coast
Sri Lanka Railways regularly tweaks its timetables, so check current times as shown here.
(06:05) = Depart Colombo 06:05, arrive Galoya 11:36, change trains, depart Galoya 12:00 for Trincomalee.
(15:15) = Arrive Colombo at 15:15, having changed at Galoya Junction from local train into the express.
Train 6011 uses the newer type of 2nd & 3rd class seats.
Sleeper = NIGHT MAIL with 1st class sleepers (2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperetts (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet car.
Always check train times for your date of travel as shown here & double-check all train times locally.
£1 = approx 400 rupees, $1 = 320 rupees. 2nd & 3rd class sleeperetts costs the same as reserved seats.
Children under under 3 travel free, 3 & over pay the adult fare.
Colombo - Talaimannar / Jaffna
Trains link Colombo with Anuradhapura, Vavuniya, Talaimannar & Jaffna. In 1990 trains stopped operating to Jaffna or Talaimannar Pier (once the ferry terminal for India) because of longstanding security problems, but in 2013 trains were reinstated as far as Kilinochchi, from 2014 as far as Pallai and finally the line to Jaffna reopened in mid-October 2014. The trains to Jaffna were then extended as far as Kankesanthurai. Trains were restored to Talaimannar town & Talaimannar Pier in April 2015, although there's no ferry to or from India. In 2023 the line was without trains again, but services were reinstated in mid-2023, as below.
Sri Lanka Railways regularly tweaks its timetables, so check current times as shown here.
Train 4017/4018 = InterCity.
Train 4077/4078 = Long distance, Yal Devi.
Train 4089/4090 = NIGHT MAIL, 1st class air-con seats car, 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperetts, 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet. No 1st class berths!
O = 1st class observation car with reserved seats of the newer type.
1 = 1st class car with reserved seats, usually the newer type.
2 = 2nd class seats, reserved & unreserved, usually the newer type.
3 = 3rd class seats, unreserved, usually the newer type.
Always check train times for your date of travel as shown here. How to buy tickets Hotels in Sri Lanka
£1 = approx 400 rupees, $1 = 320 rupees.
Children under under 3 travel free, 3 & over pay the adult fare. Sleeperetts on the Night Mail train costs the same as a reserved seat.
Colombo Commuter
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Commuter lines:
Colombo Fort - Negombo - Chillaw - Puttalam (Puttalam Line)
Colombo Fort - Mount Laviniya - Kalutara North - Kalutara South (Coast Line)
Colombo Fort - Gampaha - Rambukkana (Main line)
Colombo Fort - Avissawella (Kelani Valley Line)
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Colombo Commuter trains link Colombo with various stations in the Colombo area, including Mount Laviniya (for the famous Mount Laviniya Hotel), Negombo, Puttalam, Kalutara North & Kalutara South where there are many popular resort hotels. Although basic, these commuter trains are ideal for reaching your hotel cheaply, or making day trips into Colombo during your stay. As you'd expect, they get crowded at peak travel-to-work times but they are perfectly bearable outside the peaks.
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To look up train times, use either slr.malindaprasad.com or www.railway.gov.lk (click English then Train schedule)
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Colombo Commuter trains are 3rd class only. Fares are incredibly cheap: Colombo to Kalutara South or Negombo costs 40 rupees, about 20p. Buy a ticket at the ticket office & hop on.
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Note that Colombo-Galle mainline trains also call at Mount Laviniya & Kalutara South (but not Kalutara North). Colombo-Kandy mainline trains also call at Rambukkana.
Recommended hotels
In Colombo, top-end: Galle Face Hotel
The famous & luxurious 4-star Galle Face Hotel in Colombo is fantastic, a firm favourite of mine, but price-wise it's a real steal by western standards. Fully modernised, but still brimming with old colonial charm, it's just south of Colombo city centre, a 5 minute tuk-tuk ride from Colombo Fort station or you can walk into town in 20 minutes along the Galle Face Green promenade. Many famous guests have stayed here, from Alec Guinness and Duke Ellington to Harrison Ford and Carrie Fisher. You'll photos of celebrity guests in the hotel museum on the 2nd floor, along with HRH Price Philip's first car, bought in Ceylon in 1940 for £12. The hotel features an excellent outdoor swimming pool with lido alongside the Indian Ocean, a spa, and very affordable breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets served on the veranda under whirring ceiling fans. Rooms have free WiFi, tea & coffee facilities, valuables safe, air-con. The best place to stay in Colombo, close enough to visit the city centre yet you feel like you're staying in a resort. Check prices & book. Also worth mentioning as it's another famous classic luxury hotel, this time a short commuter train ride south of Colombo, is the Mount Laviniya Hotel.
In Colombo: Grand Oriental Hotel
If you're on a budget but still want a classic historic place to stay, Colombo's other famous old colonial hotel is the Grand Oriental Hotel, known locally as the G.O.H. In former times, when you stepped off the steamer from Blighty and walked out of the Port Authority Building, the P&O Building would be across the road on one side of York Street, the venerable G.O.H. on the other. The G.O.H. hasn't had the upmarket western-style makeover like the Galle Face, so it's less than half the price - faded grandeur on a budget. But it's very comfortable and perfectly located amongst the old colonial buildings of the Fort area, 15 minutes walk from Colombo Fort Station. Cheap breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets are served in the restaurant on the 4th floor with great views over Colombo harbour. There's a valuables safe in your room, air-con, room service, tea & coffee facilities and free WiFi. The deluxe rooms even feature a four-poster bed. Check prices & book.
In Kandy: Queen's Hotel
Sticking with the faded colonial grandeur theme, the inexpensive Queen's Hotel in Kandy also has a long and venerable history. Built as a residence for the Governor of Ceylon and a barracks for the Ceylon Rifle Regiment, famous guests include Lord Mountbatten of Burma who stayed regularly when Supreme Allied Commander South East Asia. The hotel is perfectly located across the road from both Kandy Lake and Kandy's top attraction, the Temple of the Tooth, and just a 15-minute walk or 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from Kandy station. Like the G.O.H. it hasn't had the upmarket western-style makeover, so it's relatively inexpensive, just don't expect the red carpet up the stairs to be spotless. It's a favourite with independent travellers and best of all has an open-air swimming pool and lido adjacent to the wood-panelled bar in the centre of the buildings, an oasis in the heart of the city. Rooms have high ceilings, tile or teak floors, ceiling fans, air-con, tea & coffee facilities, safes, and free WiFi. Check prices & book.
In Nuwara Eliya: The Grand Hotel
Still amongst the best hotels in the hill station of Nuwara Eliya, the venerable Grand Hotel is both classy and historic, you can read about its history at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Hotel_(Nuwara_Eliya). Even if you don't stay here, at least have a drink in the bar. Check prices & book.
In Galle
There are a whole host of boutique hotels and guesthouses in the old historic Galle Fort area, which is where you'll want to stay. Top of the heap is the absolutely wonderful but silly-money (even by western standards, at £500+) Amangalla Hotel, perfectly located a few yards from the Dutch Reformed Church. Formerly the New Oriental Hotel, it has a long 140+ year history. At least have a cup of tea on the veranda! Also excellent, upmarket and not cheap, but half the price of the Amangalla is the nearby Galle Fort Hotel. For something much more affordable, potentially under £100, but still deluxe, boutique and perfectly located in the historic fort area, try Fortaleza or the Fort Printers. On a tight budget, try the Antic Guesthouse, at under £50.
Allow for taxes when booking Sri Lankan hotels..
When booking Sri Lankan hotels, note that Sri Lankan national & city taxes often aren't included in the price you see, unlike prices shown for hotels in Europe. This can add 25%-30% to the price you see.
India to Sri Lanka by ferry
Ferry service re-launched October 2023
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After many years of being cut off from each other (with at least one short-lived attempt to start a ferry service in 2011), a new ferry service started in late 2023, linking Nagapattinam (mainland India) with Kankesanthurai (on Sri Lanka, near Jaffna).
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The fast ferry Cheriyapani sails from Nagapattinam (India) at 07:00 arriving Kankesanthurai (Sri Lanka) at 11:00.
She sails from Kankesanthurai (Sri Lanka) at 13:30 arriving Kankesanthurai (India) at 17:00.
Crossing time 3 hours for the 60 nautical miles. Service will be suspended during the monsoon season in November-December.
Fare around 8,000 Indian rupees, luggage allowance 40 Kg.
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See www.kpvs.in or call +91 978 987 9971 at least 24 hours in advance. You will be required to send a copy of your passport and visa details via WhatsApp to confirm the booking.
Be careful with e-visas when using this ferry, they will not initially be accepted at these entry points, but may be in future.
Flights to Sri Lanka
1) Check flight prices at Opodo, www.opodo.com
Sri Lankan airlines fly direct from the UK to Colombo, and are very good.
2) Use Skyscanner to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines...
Guidebooks
I
recommend a Lonely Planet or Rough Guide
Even in the age of the internet, it makes sense to invest in a guidebook, both
for planning and carrying when you're there. Don't expect the internet to
tell you everything, especially when on the move with sky-high mobile data
costs!
For independent travellers, I consider the best guides are the
Rough Guides or Lonely Planets.
Buy Lonely Planet guide to Sri Lanka online at Amazon.co.uk
Buy Rough Guide to Sri Lanka online at Amazon.co.uk
Travel insurance & other tips
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Always take out travel insurance
Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover. It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit. An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself. Here are some suggested insurers. Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.
www.staysure.co.uk
offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & gets 4.7 out of 5 on
Trustpilot.
www.columbusdirect.com
is also a well-know brand.
If you live in the USA try
Travel Guard USA.
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Get an eSIM with mobile data package
Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected. Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list. Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.
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Get a Curve card for foreign travel
Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing. The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.
How it works: 1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader. The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out). I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.
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Get a VPN for safe browsing. Why you need a VPN
When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure. A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi. It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply. See VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription. I get a small commission to help support this site.
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Carry an Anker powerbank
Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged. I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet. Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from buy from Amazon.com.