How to travel by train in

Zimbabwe . . .

How to travel by train between Harare, Bulawayo & Victoria Falls...

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Country information

Train operator in Zimbabwe:

National Railways of Zimbabwe - no official website.

Bulawayo-Botswana trains

Vic Falls-Zambia-Tanzania trains

 

 

Time zone:

GMT+2

Currency:

£1 = about Z$60,900 & counting (300% inflation).  

Z$ are not available outside Zimbabwe.  Currency converter

Tourist information:

Tripadvisor Zimbabwe page

Visas:

UK citizens now need a visa to visit Zimbabwe, but this can be obtained at the point of entry for about £35 / $55.

Page last updated:

31 March 2008


Elephants on the Chobe River, Botswana

Train travel to & within Zimbabwe...

On this page:

South Africa to Zimbabwe by train

Botswana to Zimbabwe by train

Zambia to Zimbabwe by train

Namibia to Zimbabwe by bus

Bulawayo to Victoria Falls by train

Things to do & see in Victoria Falls & Bulawayo

Harare to Bulawayo by train

 

On other pages:

Train travel in South Africa

Train travel in Zambia & Tanzania

Train travel in Botswana

Train travel in Kenya

International travel to Zimbabwe...

South Africa - Zimbabwe by train or bus...

Whatever you may read in your guidebook, there are now no direct scheduled trains from South Africa to Zimbabwe, and have not been for some years.  If your guidebook is a few years old, it may mention weekly trains from Johannesburg to Harare and Bulawayo, but for political reasons (in fact, exorbitant haulage charges imposed by the National Railways of Zimbabwe) these were suspended in 1999.  Similarly, since 1999, the daily train that used to link Mafeking and Bulawayo via Gaborone now starts at Lobatse in Southern Botswana and terminates at Francistown in Northern Botswana, and does not enter South Africa.  As at 2007, National Railways of Zimbabwe are allegedly considering re-instating a Harare-Johannesburg train some time before 2010, but expect this when you see it.  So there are now several less-than-brilliant choices for overland travel from SA to Zimbabwe:

  • Johannesburg-Bulawayo by bus:  Two companies run modern buses overnight from Johannesburg/Pretoria to Bulawayo, with departures most nights.  The journey is takes about 13 hours from Pretoria.  Visit www.greyhound.co.za and www.translux.co.za for details.  Although neither as civilised or comfortable as a train, this is probably the simplest overland option.

  • Johannesburg-Bulawayo by train+busYou can take the daily overnight 'Bosvelder' train (see train travel in South Africa) with sleeping-cars, from Johannesburg or Pretoria to Messina.  Messina is 12km short of the frontier at Beitbridge, from where you can take irregular African buses to both Harare and Bulawayo.

  • Johannesburg-Botswana-Bulawayo by bus+train:  Take a bus or buses from Johannesburg via Mafeking to Lobatse in Botswana, just north of the South African frontier.  A daily overnight train with sleeping-cars runs from Lobatse via Gaborone to Francistown in Northern Botswana - see the Botswana page for times and fares.  Starting in June 2006, a modern (for Zimbabwe!) train runs 3 times a week from Francistown to Bulawayo - see the Train travel in Botswana page for times and days of running.

  • Cruise trains South Africa to Zimbabwe:  If you have the money, there are several tourist 'cruise' trains.  The Blue Train (www.bluetrain.co.za) operates from Pretoria to Victoria Falls about once a month.  However, you can reckon on a one-way fare exceeding £500.  Rovos Rail (www.rovos.co.za) also operate on this route.  Check that these are still operating - Zimbabwe Railways' high haulage rates have hit these trains, too.

Botswana - Zimbabwe by train...

The daily Mafeking-Gaborone-Francistown-Bulawayo train was cut back to running purely within Botswana in 1999.  However, a new Francistown-Bulawayo train service started in  June 2006, running 3 times weekly with modern coaches (complete with TV entertainment!).  There are connections by overnight train to/from Gaborone and Lobatse, near the South African frontier.  See the Train travel in Botswana page for train times and days of running.

Zambia - Zimbabwe by train...

There are now no scheduled passenger trains across the famous Zambesi bridge from Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) to Livingstone (Zambia).  But you can walk across the bridge from Vic Falls to the Zambian border post and take a taxi the few miles on to Livingstone.  Trains run from Livingstone to Lusaka and Kapiri Mposhi, where you can change trains onto the Tazara line to Dar es Salaam.  See the Train travel in Zambia & Tanzania page for train times, fares and days of running.

Namibia - Zimbabwe by bus...

A bus links Victoria Falls with Windhoek 3 times a week, see the Namibia page or www.intercape.co.za.


The Bulawayo - Victoria Falls train

This classic overnight train is THE way to reach Vic Falls from Bulawayo, even though (given Zim's economic situation) it's now getting very down-at-heel.  It's an experience in itself, a piece of history with British-built coaches, some with wood-panelled interiors, dating from 1952 and 1958.  The train may receive new coaches at some point during 2008, as it was reported that 64 new long-distance coaches were due to be delivered from China by the end of 2006 (but whether they were or not is anybody's guess!).  If you have an update on this train, please email me.

Bulawayo ► Vic Falls:

 

Vic Falls  ► Bulawayo:

  The train from Bulawayo arrives in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Bulawayo Depart 20:00 Victoria Falls Depart 18:30
Dete Arr/dep. 01:29 Hwange Arr/dep. 22:22
Hwange Arr/dep. 03:04 Dete Arr/dep. 00:50
Victoria Falls Arrive 07:00 Bulawayo Arrive 07:00

In practice, expect an arrival in Vic Falls around 09:00, sometimes later. 

Fares:

Fares are incredibly cheap, even judged at the very poor official exchange rate.  The one-way 1st class sleeper fare from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls is about £5 or $8 at the prevailing official rate of exchange.  A 2nd class sleeper ticket cost about £3 ($5).


1952-built sleepers on the Bulawayo-Victoria Falls train in Zimbabwe 1st class coupé (day) 1st class coupé (night)
The night train from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls 1st class coupé (day) 1st class coupé (night)

What is the Bulawayo-Victoria Falls train like..?

There are three classes on the Bulawayo - Victoria Falls train:

  • 1st class sleepers, which have 2-berth rooms (known as coupés) and 4-berth rooms (known as compartments). These have leatherette bench seats convertible to bunks, and each room has a washbasin with (cold) water.  Full bedding used to be provided, but this is no longer the case, so perhaps buy a cheap blanket or two before boarding if you can.  The windows open for clear view of the countryside, and at night, you can use a metal / mesh screen to allow cool air in whilst keeping you secure.  The carriage lights may not work, so a torch is handy!

  • 2nd class sleepers, which are identical to 1st class sleepers except there are 3 berths per coupé and 6 berths per compartment.

  • Economy class seats:  Basic seating, and does not convert to berths  (pictured below right).Economy class on the Bulawayo - Victoria Falls train

In 1st class, 2 passengers travelling together will normally be booked into a 2-berth coupé, whereas a solo traveller will be booked into a 4-berth compartment with passengers of the same sex.  If you pay for two tickets (perfectly affordable, given the fare) you can have sole occupancy of a coupé.

The sleeping-cars are all British-built, the ones with wood-panelled interiors in Gloucester in 1952, the ones with the less attractive formica interiors in Birmingham in 1958.  Although they now carry National Railways of Zimbabwe insignia, they are still painted in the original 'Rhodesia Railways' colours, and windows and mirrors are etched with the 'RR' logo.  The coaches were in OK condition when I travelled myself in 2001, but admittedly have been let go a bit lately, given Zim's economic circumstances.

Short video taken on the journey.

How to buy tickets:

You can buy tickets at Bulawayo station reservation office or the Victoria Falls reservation window, up to 30 days before departure.  Reservations are not fully computerised, and can only be made for trains leaving from that station -  reservations for your return journey will need to be made when you reach your destination.  Your ticket will not show your coach or berth number - this will be shown on a passenger list posted in a glass case on the platform about an hour before the train departs.  Although the train appears to be well used, it's a long train with plenty of berths available, and there is unlikely to be a problem getting a place even for travel on the same day.


Things to do in Victoria Falls...

-  Visit the park to see the Falls from the Zimbabwe side.  The park entrance fee is about £15 - take some waterproof clothing..!

Victoria Falls (seen from the Zambian side)-  Walk across the frontier into Zambia to see the Zambian part of the Falls.  Between the Zimbabwean and Zambian frontier posts you cross the famous steel bridge carrying the road and railway across the Zambesi between the Zimbabwean and Zambian sides of the river.  Remember to have US$10 on you in US dollars cash, as this is the cost of a Zambian one-day visa.  Sterling is also accepted, but not Zimbabwe dollars or South African Rand.  If you pass any warthogs on the way, give them a wide berth...

-  Arrange a day trip to Chobe game reserve in Botswana.  There are many operators offering similar trips.  A 45-minute minibus transfer takes you from your hotel to the Botswana frontier.  A 3-hour game drive in the Chobe National Park is followed by a 3-hour river trip with lunch.  Animals include lion, impala, antelope, elephant, hippo, warthog, crocodile, mongoose, and even tortoise.

-  Take afternoon tea at the Victoria Falls Hotel, the poshest hotel in town.  Staying there will cost you over £200 per night.  Afternoon tea (complete with cucumber sandwiches) will cost you just £10.  The hotel is next to the railway station.

-  Go on an afternoon river cruise on the Zambezi.  Many operators offer similar trips for the going rate of about £15, which includes plentiful wine or beer.  You will probably see hippo and crocodile.

-  For those interested, there are a whole range of adventure activities available such as white water rafting down the Zambezi, or for the completely insane, bunji jumping off the Zambezi bridge.Matobo, Zimbabwe:  "Here lie the remains of Cecil John Rhodes"

...and in Bulawayo

Bulawayo is a pleasant town, with very wide open streets and relatively little traffic.  There is an excellent railway museum, which features Cecil Rhodes' private railway coach.  You should not miss a day trip to the Matobo National Park, some 25 miles South of Bulawayo.  Day tours generally visit the Whovi game reserve in the morning (famous for its rhinos), then the haunting hills of the main park in the afternoon.  Pictured right:  Cecil Rhodes is buried in a breath-taking spot in Matobo, on a rocky outcrop known as 'the view of the world'.

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The Bulawayo - Harare train...

Bulawayo ► Harare:

 

Harare ► Bulawayo:

Bulawayo Depart 21:00 Harare Depart 21:00
Harare Arrive 06:50 Bulawayo Arrive 06:26

How to buy tickets:

The only way to buy tickets is at Bulawayo and Harare station reservation offices, up to 30 days before departure.  Reservations are not fully computerised, and can only be made for trains leaving from that station -  reservations for your return journey will need to be made when you reach your destination.  Your ticket will not show your coach or berth number - this will be shown on a passenger list posted in a glass case on the platform about an hour before the train departs.  Fares are not expensive - in the region of £20/$35 or less one way in Sleeper class.

The Bulawayo-Harare overnight train, Zimbabwe    Sleeper class on the Bulawayo-Harare train
Above:  The Bulawayo-Harare night train Above:  Sleeper class

What is the Bulawayo-Harare train like..?

New coaches have been introduced on the Bulawayo-Harare overnight train.  There are 3 classes of accommodation on this train:

  • Sleeper class:  2-berth rooms (known as coupés) and 4-berth rooms (known as compartments). These have leatherette bench seats convertible to bunks, and each room has a washbasin water.  Full bedding is provided, included in the fare.  There is a hot shower available at the end of the sleeping-car corridor.  Although not air-conditioned, the windows open for a superb view of the countryside, and at night, a metal / mesh screen can be used to allow cool air in but keep you safe and secure.

  • Standard class: comfortable airline-style seating (does not convert to sleeping berths).

  • Economy class: basic seating (does not convert to berths).

In sleeper class, two passengers travelling together will normally be booked into a 2-berth coupé, whereas a solo traveller will be booked into a 4-berth compartment with passengers of the same sex.  If you pay for two tickets you can have sole occupancy of a coupé.

Standard class on the Bulawayo-Harare overnight train    Economy class on the Bulawayo-Harare overnight train
Above:  Standard class Above:  Economy class

Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable

It's probably the most adventurous timetable ever produced...  The famous Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable has train, bus and ferry times for Zimbabwe and every country in Africa, Asia, North and South America and Australasia.   It is updated every two months.

It's an essential publication for any serious traveller, and an inspiration for armchair travellers..!

It costs around £13.50 from the bureau de change section of any UK branch of Thomas Cook, or you can buy it online at www.thomascooktimetables.com (worldwide delivery).

Tomas Cook Overseas Timetable     

Recommended guidebooks

Click to buy onlineTo get the most from a trip to Southern Africa, you'll need a good guidebook - and I think the Lonely Planet guides are about the best ones out there for independent travel.

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk...

Or buy direct from the Lonely Planet website, with shipping worldwide.

The Southern Africa guidebook is less detailed than the Zimbabwe one, but it covers South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, and several other countries in Southern Africa as well as Zimbabwe.


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