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Myanmar  (Burma) . . .

How to travel by train, bus & ferry in Burma (Myanmar)

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 Country information

Train operator:

Myanmar Railways (MR) - No official website, but try www.yangonow.com/eng/transportation/train/fare.html or www.gomoasia.com/train.htm.

 

 

Time zone:

GMT+6½

Currency:

US$ widely accepted, and foreigners must pay hotel bills & train fares in US$.  Credit cards and travellers' cheques are NOT accepted in Burma.

Hotels:

Hotels in Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake

Visas:

UK citizens need a visa to visit Burma (Myanmar), obtainable from the Embassy of the Union of Myanmar, 19a Charles Street, London W1X 8ER, visa section open 10:00-13:00 Mon-Fri, visa fee £14.  Call 020 7629 4486 or 24 hour visa info line (premium rates) 0891 600306 or 0891 600 306.  Fax 020 7629 4169.  In 2004 an online visa system was started, but this seems to have been discontinued.

Page last updated:

5 February 2008


 Visiting Burma...

Should you go..?

Burma is not noted for the attractiveness of its regime - to put it mildly.  There are arguments for and against visiting Burma which will not be repeated here, but they are well explained in the Lonely Planet Guide to Myanmar (see this link) and you should consider them carefully before deciding whether to go.  You might also want to see www.burmacampaign.org.uk, which tells tourists not to go.  However, if you do decide to go, you'll find a fascinating country which is easy and safe to visit, with friendly and honest people.  Paradoxically, the lack of mass tourism due to the boycott of the regime has preserved Burma from the westernisation affecting some other Asian countries, making it one of the most interesting places to visit now, before it's too late.

Myanmar or Burma..?

'Myanmar' is the Burmese-language name for Burma, and always was, even in colonial times.  'Burma' is the English-language name for Myanmar, and still is.  The Burmese government switched to using the Burmese-language name for the country in 1948, and in 1989 also switched to using the Burmese-language names for a number of places around the country.  On this webpage, the Burmese names are used first, with the familiar English-language name in brackets, for example 'Yangon (Rangoon)' or 'Mawlamyine (Moulmein)'.

On this page:

Train times & fares

What are Burmese trains like?

How to buy tickets

Irrawaddy river steamers

Right:  A train from Lashio to Mandalay crosses the famous Gokteik Viaduct in Shan state, northern Burma. 

Photo courtesy of Bernhard Heiser of www.asiaphoto.de, which has excellent pictures of what to see in Burma...   

A Mandalay - Lashio train on the famous Gokteik viaduct in Shan state, Myanmar.

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 Train times & fares

Train times & fares for key routes:

Yangon - Bago - Thazi - Mandalay

Yangon - Bagan

Yangon - Shwenyaung (for Inle Lake)

Yangon - Bago - Kyaikto - Mawlamyine (Moulmein)

Yangon - Pyay

Mandalay - Bagan

Mandalay - Shwenyaung (for Inle Lake)

Mandalay - Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) - Hsipaw - Lashio

Mandalay - Kawlin - Myitkyina

Mandalay - Bagan - Pyay - Yangon by Irrawaddy river steamer : Irrawaddy steamer section.

There are NO international trains from Burma, and it can be difficult to enter Burma overland from either India or Thailand because the borders are closed to foreigners and foreigners are not permitted in most border areas. 

Map of train routes in Southeast Asia

 Yangon (Rangoon) - Mandalay

The Rangoon to Mandalay express trains are a comfortable and (in fact) relatively fast and punctual option for travel between these cities.  A bit bumpy in places, perhaps, but much more comfortable than cramped buses and far more of a real Burmese travel experience than a flight.  In fact, the train ride is a highly recommended experience..!   The timetable below shows the new timetable introduced in September 2006 (changed again in November 2006), which rescheduled most Rangoon-Mandalay trains to run by day rather than overnight.

 Yangon Mandalay

 Train number:

31 5 3 11 1 7 29

 Classes:

U, O U,1,O,R U,1,O U, O U,1,O U,1,O U, O
Yangon (Rangoon) depart: 03:15 05:00 05:30 06:00 08:30 12:00 12:45
Bago (Pegu) 05:05 06:51 07:21 07:50 10:36 13:50 |
Taungoo   09:27 11:28 12:19 12:38 17:08 18:23 19:00
Pyinmana  (Naypyitaw) 11:45 13:48 14:36 15:13 20:09 20:43 21:05
Thazi - 16:56 18:03 18:38 00:40 - 00:03
Mandalay arrive: - 20:10 21:30 22:00 06:00 - 03:00

S = sleeping-car  U = upper class seats  1 = first class seats  O = ordinary class seats  R = restaurant car

It is not now certain which if any trains have sleepers - if you find out, please email me!

Rangoon to Mandalay is 622 km (388 miles).  All the trains shown here run daily.  Trains 29, 30, 33 & 34 are known as the 'Chinese trains', using the newest Chinese coaches.  Train 17 & 18 (which seems to have disappeared from the timetable in November 2006, but this could be an error) is a special joint venture between Myanmar railways and a private company called Dagon Mann Travel, but it is broadly similar to other Myanmar Railways trains. 

 Mandalay ► Yangon

Train number: 32 30 8 6 4 12 2

 Classes:

U, O U, O U, O U,1,O,R U,1,O U,1,O U,1,O
Mandalay depart: - 22:30 - 05:00 05:30 06:00 19:00
Thazi - 01:13 - 07:48 08:20 09:04 23:45
Pyinmana   05:00 04:11 13:45 11:01 11:52 12:23 05:01
Taungoo 07:00 06:18 15:45 13:18 14:13 14:49 08:06
Bago (Pegu) 11:37 | 20:13 17:52 19:12 19:35 14:49
Yangon (Rangoon) arrive: 13:45 13:00 22:15 20:10 21:30 22:00 17:20

Foreigners must pay fares in US dollars.  Children under 3 years old travel free, children under 10 pay half fare. 

How to buy tickets

What are Burmese trains like?

Right:  Upper class cars on a Rangoon - Mandalay express.  There is no air-conditioning, but windows open for a cool breeze and unrivalled views of the Burmese countryside.  Trains 15 / 16 and 5 / 6 have the most modern cars.

  Upper class car, Rangoon-Mandalay express train.   Modern Upper class seats on Rangoon (Yangon) to Mandalay train 5.

 Fares:

Special

sleeper

Upper class

sleeper

Upper class

seat

First class

seat

Ordinary

seat

 Rangoon - Mandalay (train 17 or 18) $50 $48 $ 45 $32 -
 Rangoon - Mandalay (train 15 or 16) - - $ 35  ? $ 15
 Rangoon - Mandalay (on other trains) - $ 33 $ 30  ? $ 11
 Rangoon - Thazi (train 15 or 16) - - $ 32  ? $ 12
 Rangoon - Thazi (on other trains) - $ 30 $ 23  ? $ 9
 Rangoon - Bago - - $ 5  ? $ 2

About the journey:

Passing Bago on the special sleeper from Rangoon (Yangon) to Mandalay...Contrary to what you might read in your guidebook, the Rangoon to Mandalay express trains are a comfortable, fairly fast and reasonably punctual way to travel between Rangoon and Mandalay.  Trains are available for boarding at Rangoon in good time (normally at the platform right in front of you when you enter the station), and they generally depart promptly with whistles blown, flags waved, and a long low hoot from the locomotive.

The train trundles out of Rangoon at just 15mph with the local children trying to hang on to the outside, accelerating to 40-45mph once clear of the city, clickety-clacking past small villages of palm-thatched cottages built on stilts, ox carts trundling slowly along dusty roads, and occasional white or gold stupas.  Burmese children love to wave at trains, especially if they see a western face at the window, and will smile broadly when you wave back.  You'll be travelling along a railway originally built by the British - look out for the old-fashioned semaphore signals and mock-Tudor signal boxes at Bago.

Even when night falls, you'll see the palm trees silhouetted in the moonlight, and the smell of the village cooking fires will drift into your sleeper compartment through the open window.  Make sure you have a jumper or fleece handy if you travel overnight, as it can get very cold a few hours after dark.  The track is not the best in the world and in places it will put your carriage suspension through its paces, but you stand a good chance of arriving at the other end within 5 or 10 minutes of the advertised time.  However, delays of 30 - 60 minutes or more are not uncommon, so make allowances.  Pictured, right:  Train 17 from Rangoon to Mandalay passes Bago.  The wide-open windows and relatively slow speeds make train travel a great way to see Burma.

Travellers' reports...

Traveller Roger Minns reports from January 2008:  "After a last shower we set off on the midday walk to the station and our rendezvous with our upper class seats of the ’Chinese 29 up train’ from Rangoon bound for Mandalay leaving at 12.30.  And there it was!  A spacious carriage with collapsed but still surprisingly comfortable seats (albeit in the permanently fully-reclined mode) some 40 years old but mercifully with windows which opened fully and a ceiling full of fans which worked!  The carriage was full with polite local people including a couple of monks.  We left on time through the outskirts of Rangoon and then through an arid farming area.  People working on the land with oxen but no tractors or farm equipment – unbelievably arduous work.  Occasionally our train slowed or stopped at a station when a multitude of vendors would get on – often emerging from the roof with a range of hot and cold food offerings – including, to Tom’s undisguised delight, a bloke with tins of coldish Myanmar beer.  There was also a restaurant service of sorts on board and Graham in particular took full advantage of the supply of noodles, curries and, inevitably, coffee.  After dark the lights didn’t really work so we tried to sleep in fairly uncomfortable circumstances.  It was chilly, but with the windows closed not excessively so, and we all managed to kip for a bit. Any urge Tom and I might have had to visit the loo rapidly evaporated when a rather shaken-looking Graham returned with a report that there was a loose turd rolling around on the lavatory floor!  Then, suddenly at 3am, our arrival on time at Mandalay Station!  We had worried about arriving at Mandalay at 3 in the morning expecting the place to be dead. Far from it! The station was humming with music, tea houses, people sleeping on the platform and, inevitably, taxi drivers! "

 Yangon (Rangoon) - Bagan

Bagan, where 800-year-old temples and stupas litter a huge plain as far as the eye can see, should not be missed.  There are direct trains from Rangoon to Bagan, but these only run 4 times a week, are very slow and use old rolling stock.  It is better to take an express train from Rangoon to Thazi then a bus or taxi to Bagan, or an express train from Rangoon to Mandalay, visit Mandalay, then travel to Bagan using the express ferry.  However, if you want to use the direct trains, details are shown here. 

IMPORTANT:  It's been reported that these direct Rangoon-Bagan trains no longer run, but this has not yet been confirmed.  If you have any further information, please email me..!

 Yangon ► Bagan

 Bagan ► Yangon

Train number:

25 61  

 Train number:

26 62
Days of running: Wed, Sun Mon, Fri   Days of running: Wed, Sun Mon, Fri

Classes:

U,O U,O   

Classes:

U,O U,O
Rangoon (Yangon) depart: 08:30 day 1 21:00 day 1        Bagan (Pagan) depart: 08:30 day 1 21:15 day 1
Bagan (Pagan) arrive: 05:05 day 2 18:15 day 2   Rangoon (Yangon) arrive: 06:00 day 2 21:00 day 2

U = upper class seats;  O = ordinary class seatsHow to buy ticketsWhat are Burmese trains like?

 Fares:

Upper class

sleeper

Upper class

seat

First class

seat

Ordinary

seat

 Rangoon - Bagan - US$ 31 - US$ 11

The temples of Bagan, MyanmarAbout the journey:

Trains 25 / 26 and 61 / 62 are extremely slow and have no sleepers or restaurant car, just seats.  They use much older and dirtier carriages than the Rangoon-Mandalay express trains, and it's a long and not very reliable journey.  It's much better to take an express train from Rangoon to Thazi then a bus or taxi from Thazi to Bagan, or to travel Rangoon to Mandalay by express train, visit Mandalay, then take the Mandalay to Bagan express ferry down the Irrawaddy, a wonderful river journey.

Bagan station is a modern pagoda-style station in the middle of nowhere about 5km southeast of the Nyaung Oo township, roughly 9km from Old Bagan.  It's possibly one of the few stations in the world further from the town it serves than the airport..!  Train 25 / 26 runs via Pyinmana on the mainline to Mandalay, and is allegedly slightly less unreliable than train 61 / 62 which runs via the more rural Pyay line.  Please double-check train times locally.

 Yangon (Rangoon) - Inle Lake

Inle Lake is one of the most beautiful places in Burma, and it attracts many visitors.  The usual base for exploring the lake is Nyaungshwe, at the north end of the lake.  Trains and buses don't go directly to Nyaungshwe, but go to the junction town of Shwenyaung 11 km away.  To reach Shwenyaung, take an express train from Rangoon or Mandalay to Thazi, then either a bus (4-5 hours on bad roads) or, preferably, a wonderfully scenic trip on the 'Slow Train From Thazi' as shown below.  There are plenty of local taxis and buses between Shwenyaung and Nyaungshwe.

 Yangon ► Inle Lake

         

 Inle Lake ► Yangon

The "Slow Train

From Thazi":

Train №:

143    141 The "Slow Train

To Thazi":

Train №: 142 144
Classes: U, O    U, O Classes: U, O U, O
Thazi depart: 05:00 08:00 Shwenyaung depart: 08:00 10:11
Kalaw arr / dep

11:14

13:56 Kalaw arr / dep 11:26 14:03
Shwenyaung arrive: 13:48 16:50 Thazi arrive: 17:30 20:10

U = upper class seats  1 = first class seats  O = ordinary class seats  R = Restaurant car

How to buy tickets   What are Burmese trains like?    Connections to/from Rangoon or Mandalay

 Fares:

Upper class

sleeper

Upper class

seat

First class

seat

Ordinary

seat

 Rangoon - Shwenyaung Add Rangoon-Thazi + Thazi-Shwenyaung fares
 Thazi - Shwenyaung - US$ 7 - US$ 3

The Slow Train from Shwenyaung to Thazi... About the journey:

Buses may be faster, but the Slow Train From Thazi is a wonderful experience which should not be missed:  Stock up on mineral water and beer, then recline in your Upper class armchair (you may have no choice - the recline mechanism may be broken...), and gaze through wide open windows at the wonderful scenery passing by at just 15-20 mph. 

After crossing the plain from Thazi, the train enters the hills and climbs up a steep mountainside on a series of switchbacks, reversing several times and backing up the slope to gain height.  In several places, the train loops around and doubles back on itself.  Look out for the very English mock-Tudor station building at the old British hill station of Kalaw.  When you arrive in Shwenyaung, the journey to Nyaungshwe takes 25 minutes by taxi or public pick-up.  Pictured right:  on board the Slow Train to Thazi...

Rangoon or Mandalay to Inle Lake:  Take an express train from Rangoon to Thazi, see the Rangoon - Mandalay timetable above.  Stay the night in Thazi, there are guesthouses at the end of the station approach on the main street.  You are unlikely to have any difficulty buying a ticket for the Slow Train to Shwenyaung at Thazi ticket office when you get there.  In Thazi, the Red Star restaurant, where the station approach joins the main road, is a good choice for a meal while you change trains.  A deluxe waiting room for foreigners is also available at Thazi station for $1 per person.  Complete the last few kilometres from Shwenyaung to Nyaungshwe by bus or taxi.

Inle Lake to Rangoon or Mandalay:  In Nyaungshwe, there are lots of travel agencies who can arrange just about anything except train tickets..!  But don't worry - just turn up at Shwenyaung station 30-40 minutes before the departure of the Slow Train To Thazi and you're unlikely to have any difficulty getting an Upper class ticket for the train to Thazi.  For onwards trains from Thazi to Rangoon or Mandalay, see the Rangoon - Mandalay timetable above.  You can buy a ticket for one of the expresses to Rangoon when you get to Thazi. Fisherman on Inle Lake...

The train from Shwenyaung to Thazi will probably arrive in Thazi either on time or even 15 minutes early(!).  If you change onto an express, these get priority so you can expect an arrival Rangoon either on time or maybe 20-75 minutes late.  In Thazi, the Red Star restaurant, where the station approach joins the main road, is a good choice for a meal while you change trains.  A deluxe waiting room for foreigners is available at Thazi station for $1 per person.

Pictured, right: a fisherman on Inle Lake.

 Yangon (Rangoon) - Mawlamyine (Moulmein)

Moulmein is not on every visitor's itinerary, but if you have the time it's well worth a visit for its colonial buildings and historic mosques.  Although Rudyard Kipling wrote the 'Road to Mandalay', Moulmein was the only Burmese city which he actually visited, and the main pagoda on the ridge overlooking the city is the setting for his poem 'Burma Girl'.

 Yangon ► Moulmein

 Moulmein Yangon

  Classes:

U,0 U,O  

Classes:

U,O

U,O
Train number:

35

89   Train number: 36 82
Yangon (Rangoon) depart: 07:15