Visiting Albania...

The statue of Skënderbeg, Albania's national hero, in Skënderbeg Square in Tiranë

Albania, which Albanians call Shqipëria or Land of the Eagles, was once the most mysterious country in Europe.  It became a Stalinist dictatorship in 1946, and for decades it was almost completely shut off from the rest of the world.  But things have changed.  The Communist regime was overturned in 1991, and in spite of well-publicised troubles in 1992 and again in 1997, most of Albania is now quite safe to visit - you can check with www.fco.gov.uk.   Albania is easy to reach from western Europe, either by train to Italy then ferry across the Adriatic, or overland by train to Montenegro then by bus or taxi across the border into Albania.  EU citizens don't even need a visa and it's a fascinating country that will challenge your pre-conceptions of things Albanian.  There are some photographs of what you might see in Albania at the bottom of this page.

Train times, fares, tickets & information...

London & Paris to Tiranë via ferry from Italy

London & Paris to Tiranë overland via Belgrade

Train times & fares within Albania

International links from Albania to neighbouring countries

Things to see in Albania

Hotels in Albania

General European train travel information

Luggage   Taking bikes   Taking dogs

Useful country information...

Sponsored links...

There are no international passenger trains between Albania and the rest of Europe, and travel in some of the border regions is inadvisable (see www.fco.gov.uk), so the fastest, easiest and most comfortable way to reach Albania is to take a train to Bari in Italy and sail overnight to Durrës on the daily Ventouris Ferries ship.  The journey from London to Albania is quite straightforward and can all be booked from the UK.  If you'd rather travel overland by train to Montenegro then by taxi or bus, see the next section.

London ► Tiranë

2-berth cabin with shower/WC aboard the Sansovino.		Adriatica Line used to operate daily overnight sailings Bari-Durrës.  This is the Sansovino at Durrës.		At sea in the Adriatic...

Tiranë ► London

• Day 1, evening:  Sail from Durrës to Bari by overnight ferry.  The daily Ventouris Ferries ship leaves Durrës at 23:00 and arrives in Bari at 07:00 next morning, see www.ventouris.gr.  Also try Agoudimos Line (www.agoudimos-lines.com) who operate Durrës to Bari 3-5 times a week, Venezia Lines (www.venezialines.com) or Adria ferries (www.adriaferries.com).  Whichever operator you choose, a range of comfortable cabins is available on the overnight crossings.  You can check sailing dates & times for all operators at the Seat61 Ferry Shop.

• Day 2:  Travel from Bari to Milan by air-conditioned Frecciabianca train leaving Bari at 11:43 and arriving in Milan Centrale at 19:25.  There is a refreshment trolley, or feel free to bring your own food and wine.

• Spend the night in a hotel in Milan, a beautiful city that's well worth an extra day for a stopover.  Atahotel The Big & Atahotel Executive are very convenient as they're just across the road from Milan Porta Garibaldi station.  Hotels in Milan.

• Day 3 morning:  Travel from Milan to Paris by high-speed Paris-Italy TGV, leaving Milan Porto Garibaldi station at 06:00 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 13:23.  There is a bar car serving drinks, snacks and light meals.  If you'd prefer a more leisurely breakfast and later departure from Milan, there's also a TGV leaving Milan Porto Garibaldi at 08:50, arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 16:11.  What's the journey like?  See the Paris-Milan TGV video guide.

• Cross Paris by metro or taxi to the Gare du Nord (2 stops on RER line D). 

• Day 3 afternoon:  Travel from Paris to London by Eurostar.  If you took the early 06:00 TGV from Milan, you can leave Paris Gare du Nord at 15:13 arriving London St Pancras at 16:39.  If you chose the later 08:50 TGV from Milan, you'll need the 18:13 Eurostar from Paris Nord (19:13 on Saturdays), arriving London 19:39 (20:39 on Saturdays).

How much does it cost?

How to buy tickets...

Above: The 09:30 to Durrës at Tiranë.

• Step 1, book the ferry online at the Seat61 Ferry Shop.

• Step 2, book the trains from London to Paris & Paris to Milan.  It's easiest and cheapest to book online, following the detailed instructions in the London to Milan  section of the London to Italy page and using either www.raileurope.co.uk (in English, for UK residents, tickets sent to any UK address) or www.voyages-sncf.com (for any user, in several languages, with print-at-home tickets).

• Step 3, book the Milan to Bari train.  The cheapest way to to book direct with Italian Railways at www.trenitalia.com, especially if you choose a limited-refund, limited-changes Economy or Super-economy fare.  You pay by credit card and it's ticketless, you simply quote your reservation reference to the conductor on the train.  See the advice on using Trenitalia.com.

Alternatively, you can book the trains by phone with any European rail agency, such as Ffestiniog Travel on 01766 512 340 or Rail Europe on 0844 848 5 848.  Click here for a list of agencies and other information on how to book.

It's possible to travel overland to Albania, by train from London or Paris via Belgrade to either Podgorica (in Montenegro) or Bar, then by bus or taxi to the border and on to Shkodër, then train to Tiranë.  There may be security concerns in some border areas of Albania, so double-check Foreign Office travel advice first, at www.fco.gov.uk.  The overland option generally takes a day or two longer than the more straightforward train & ferry option via Italy, but you can stop off and see some remarkable parts of the Balkans on the way, for example Belgrade and Montenegro.  Why not go out by ferry and back overland, or vice versa?  Here's how to travel overland:

London ► Tiranë

Tiranë ► London

Feedback from travellers using this route would be very welcome.

The view from the train from Durrës & Tiranë to Pogradec.  Photo courtesy of Gabriel Chew

Travelling by train in Albania is an experience not to be missed.  Second hand coaches from Italy, Austria or Germany hauled by Czech-built diesels clickety-clack across the countryside at about 35 mph (or less!).  Don't be surprised by torn seats or broken windows, but then, what do you expect for 50p?  You may be able to check these train times at www.hsh.com.al (if it's working), but please also double-check locally.  All trains are one class only.

** to / from Durrës, change at Vorë.

Tiranë & Durrës ► Vlorë & Elbasan						Elbasan & Vlorë ► Durrës & Tiranë
Tiranë	depart	06:00	14:15	14:15		Vlorë	depart	-	05:00*	-
Durrës	depart	07:15	15:30	15:18		Fier	depart	-	06:39*	-	14:50
Rrogozhinë	arrive	08:26	xx:xx	xx:xx		Lushnjë	depart	-	07:39*	-	xx:xx
Elbasan	arrive	10:10	18:23	|		Pogradec	depart	-	|	**	xx:xx
Librazhd	arrive	11:01	-	|		Librazhd	depart		|	11:55	|
Pogradec	arrive	**	-	|		Elbasan	depart	06:40	|	12:52	18:23
Lushnjë	arrive	xx:xx	-	xx:xx*		Rrogozhinë	depart	08:25	08:22	xx:xx	-
Fier	arrive	18:30	-	18:30*		Durrës	arrive	09:34	09:34	15:45	-
Vlorë	arrive	-	-	20:10*		Tiranë	arrive	10:45	10:45	17:00	-

* = From/to Tiranë, Change at Rrogozhinë.

** = There are now no trains to or from Pogradec, as from summer 2012.  Trains now start/terminate at Librazhd.

Fares & buying tickets...

Fares are incredibly cheap.  Durrës to Tiranë one-way costs 70 Lek, or about 50p.  Durrës to Shkodër is 160 Lek, about £1.  Tiranë to Vlore is 250 Lek, about £1.60.  Tickets are not sold in advance, only for the next train.

What are Albanian trains like?

Trains offer one class only.  Some trains use decrepit second-hand Italian coaches with a side-corridor and compartments, like the ones shown below on the 14:10 train from Tiranë to Durrës.

Other trains use slightly newer second-hand Austrian coaches with open seating, like these on a train from Tiranë to Durrës.  There are now many second-hand German suburban coaches too.

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There are no international trains to or from Albania, but here's how to travel to neighbouring countries by bus, taxi or ferry...

Travelling from Tiranë to Bar (Montenegro), Podgorica (Montenegro) & Belgrade (Serbia)

Travelling from Tiranë to Skopje (Macedonia)

Ferries from Albania to Bari or Ancona (Italy)

Buses from Tiranë to Athens & Thessaloniki (Greece)

Above left, the statue of Skënderbeg, Albania's national hero, in Skënderbeg Square in the centre of Tiranë.  George Kastrioti (1405-1468) was an Albanian who at a very young age was handed over to the Turks as a hostage.  The Turks converted him to Islam and gave him a military education in Edirne in Turkey, where he became known as 'Alexander' ('Iskënder') after Alexander the Great.  He was made a lord ('bey') by the Turks before he turned against them, driving them out of Albania.  'Iskënder' + 'bey' = 'Skënderbeg'.  Above right, the communist mural on the front of the National History Museum on Skënderbeg Square.

Above left, the former residence of Enver Hoxha (pronounced 'Hodja') in Tiranë.  Enver Hoxha was Albania's president and dictator from 1946 until his death in 1985.  Above right, the former Enver Hoxha museum, now home to several cafes.  Albania aligned itself with the USSR from 1944 until 1960, when the two countries fell out over Khruschev's demands for a Soviet submarine base at Vlorë.  In 1961, Albania broke off diplomatic relations with the USSR and re-aligned itself with the Peoples Republic of China.

Above:  The mosque of Ethem Bey, dating from 1793, on Skënderbeg Square in Tiranë.  The clock tower next to it dates from 1830.		There are some 750,000 of these small concrete bunkers all over the Albanian countryside.  They were built on the orders of Enver Hoxha after the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968.

The Roman amphitheatre in Durrës, dating from the 2nd century AD and first excavated in around 1960.		The historic town of Kruja is 38km from Tiranë, and can be reached by minibus-taxi in about an hour.  Skënderbeg made Kruja his capital from 1443 to 1468.

The 14:15 train from Tiranë to Durrës calls at Vora.		'They went that-a-way...' A statue in Durrës.

The Thomas Cook European Timetable

The Thomas Cook European timetable has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  Published since 1873, it costs £14.99.  It's essential for any serious traveller and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Still not convinced you need one?  More information on what the Thomas Cook Timetable contains.  You can buy the latest monthly edition online at www.thomascookpublishing.com with worldwide delivery or buy it in person from selected UK branches of Thomas Cook (ask at the bureau de change), or from W H Smiths in Victoria station in London.  Or buy the twice-yearly independent traveller's edition with laminated cover from Amazon.co.uk:  Winter/Spring 2012/13 edition (Dec 2012 to June 2013) or (when available) Summer/Autumn 2013 edition (June to Dec 2013)

The Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe is the best and most comprehensive map of train routes right across Europe, from Portugal in the west to Istanbul, Moscow & Ukraine in the east, from Finland in the north to Sicily & Crete in the south.  High speed & scenic routes are highlighted.  Highly recommended!  Buy online at www.amazon.co.uk (worldwide delivery).  See an extract from the map.

Hotels & accommodation

Find a hotel in Tiranë or elsewhere in Albania...