Useful country information

Sea travel to Sri Lanka

Ferry service to/from India re-started June 2011, suspended again Dec 2011...

After many years of being cut off from each other, a new ferry service started between Colombo in Sri Lanka and Tuticorin in India in June 2011, website www.flemingoliners.com.  The modern cruise ferry 'Scotia Prince' started sailing twice a week in each direction, leaving at 18:00 and arriving at 08:00 next morning, although sailing days changed from week to week.  All passengers got a sleeping berth in a cabin, fares ranged from 2,243 Indian rupees (about £47 or $77) in an economy class single-berth cabin to 2,760 Indian rupees (£58 or $95) in a super deluxe single-berth cabin, all fares included a non-alcoholic 'welcome aboard' drink and a fixed-menu dinner.  They had aspirations to make it a daily service in due course.  However, due to a dispute over money owed to the caterers(!), the ferry was impounded in December 2011, and isn't currently running.  The operator isn't sure when (or if) it will resume.  A second ferry service, between Rameswaram and Talaimannar was rumoured to be starting by the end of 2011, but again no details are available and nothing seems to have happened.  So currently no ferries at all link India with Sri Lanka.

Train travel in Sri Lanka

The view from the train:  The view from the morning train from Kandy to Colombo.  Courtesy of Nicola David.

Once in Sri Lanka, trains are a cheap, safe and enjoyable way to get around.  Trains link the major cities and have several classes:

• 1st class sleepers.  1st class sleeping-berths are available on a few overnight trains.  The cars have lockable 2-berth compartments with separate toilet and washbasin.  Bedding is provided.

• 1st class observation car.  A 1st class observation car is available on one or two of the daytime trains on the amazingly scenic route from Colombo to Kandy and Badulla.  The observation car is normally at the rear of the train or occasionally behind the locomotive and has comfortable though slightly grubby armchairs facing a large window looking back along the track.  Seats must be reserved before departure.  Seats can be reserved within 10 days of departure, but book early as the observation car is very popular and gets booked up fast, especially during school holidays.  However, the new Chinese-built blue trains now operating several departures on this route don't have observation cars.

• 1st class air-conditioned seats car.  The new Chinese-built blue trains on the route from Colombo to Kandy & Badulla feature modern air-conditioned 1st class seats cars.  Air-conditioned 1st class seats are also available on one or two InterCity Express trains between Colombo & Vavunia and Colombo & Batticaloa.

• 2nd class seats, available on all trains.  These come in several versions, depending on the train:  (1) unreserved seats, where you buy a ticket, hop on and sit in any available seat, (2) reserved seats where you must make a reservation and you get an allocated seat, and (3) reserved 'sleeperette' reclining seats which are available on most overnight trains and recline to about 45 degrees for sleeping.  2nd class seats are the recommended option on trains with no 1st class.

• 3rd class seats, available on most trains.  These come in several versions, depending on the train:  Unreserved seats, reserved seats, and reserved 'sleeperette' reclining seats.  3rd class is very basic and gets very crowded, and it is not generally recommended for visitors.

• Privately-run ExpoRail & Rajadhani carriages:  A couple of trains a day on the Colombo to Kandy & Badulla route now carry a privately-run deluxe car with special fares, WiFi, power sockets & inclusive meals, see www.exporail.lk.  A similar private air-conditioned carriage is run by www.rajadhani.lk also on the Colombo to Kandy & Badulla route and on the Colombo to Galle & Matara route.

Train times...

Colombo - Kandy - Nuwara Eliya - Badulla

Colombo - Galle - Matara

Colombo - Galoya - Polonnaruwa, Batticaloa, Trincomalee

Colombo - Kurunegala - Anuradhapura - Vavunia

The timetables on this page show the principal trains on the most popular routes.  There are many other trains, stations and rail routes in Sri Lanka, but note that trains no longer operate to Jaffna or Talaimannar.  You can check routes and train times at the new Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk.  There is also train information at www.slrfc.org/sri-lanka-railways-time-table.html or http://colombofort.com or www.reddottours.com.  If you visit Sri Lanka, feedback would be appreciated!

How to buy tickets...

The privately-run ExpoRail & Rajadhani carriages Colombo-Kandy-Badulla can be booked online at www.exporail.lk & www.rajadhani.lk.  The regular Sri Lanka Railways trains cannot be booked online, but it's easy to buy tickets when you get to Sri Lanka, there is a special ticket window for tourists in the 1st & 2nd class advance booking office at the east end of Colombo Fort station.  Reservations for trains with reserved seating such as InterCity Express trains open 10-14 days in advance.  Other trains (shown as having 'unreserved' seats) don't require a reservation, you just buy a ticket on and hop on.  Seats in the 1st class observation car from Colombo to Kandy can get fully-booked from time to time, so book a few days ahead if you can, but you may well find seats available on the day of travel. 

If you really want to pre-book a train before you get to Sri Lanka, and are prepared to pay a booking fee, try contacting a local travel agency (and let me know if you find a good one!) or even asking your hotel to arrange tickets for you.  If you want to book some hotels or tours as well as train tickets, reputable agency www.reddottours.com will book train tickets for you if you're also booking £300 or more of other tours and accommodation with them.

Two views of Colombo Fort Station. Photos courtesy of  Paul White.

Can you help improve this page?

If you have comments, suggestions, more information or photos that might improve this page and help fellow travellers, please e-mail me!

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Colombo - Kandy - Badulla

This scenic train ride is the way to reach Kandy, 121 km by rail from Colombo, or the hill station at Nuwara Eliya.  The ride onwards to Badulla, into the hill country, is also wonderful, and probably the best train ride in Sri Lanka.  Travel in the 1st class observation car is recommended, and if possible on an InterCity Express train.

* This train is the PODI MENIKE, new Chinese-built blue train.    ** This train is the UDARATA MENIKE, new Chinese-built blue train.  

How to buy tickets     Hotels in Sri Lanka

Exo = One or two privately-run ExpoRail air-conditioned carriages are attached to these trains, with at-seat catering & WiFi see www.exporail.lk with online booking available.  See this news article with photos.  The special fare from Colombo to Kandy is 1,450 rupees, children aged 3-11 1500 rupees.  Colombo to Badulla costs 2,250 rupees, children 1,700 rupees.

Raj = One or two privately-run Rajadhani Express air-conditioned carriages with reclining leather seats are attached to these trains.  Special fare Colombo-Kandy 1,100 rupees, Colombo-Badulla 1,750 rupees, see www.rajadhani.lk for more info & online booking.  It runs daily on the 15:35 Colombo-Kandy & 06:15 Kandy-Colombo.  On the 08:15 Colombo-Badulla it runs daily except Wednesdays.  On the 10:00 Badulla to Colombo it runs daily except Thursdays.

ICE = InterCity Express, with 1st class observation car with reserved seats, 2nd & 3rd class reserved seats.

Sleeper = NIGHT MAIL, 1st class sleepers (2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperettes (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet car.

O = 1st class observation car with reserved seats, not air-conditioned.

1 = 1st class air-conditioned reserved seats

2 = 2nd class seats.

3 = 3rd class seats.

R = buffet/restaurant car.

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk, but please check all times locally.

Additional Kandy trains on Saturdays & Sundays:  Colombo depart 08:50, Kandy arrive 11:26;  Kandy depart 16:50 & 17:30, Colombo arrive 19:25 & 20:05.

Nuwara Eliya (City of lights) is a colonial hill station 2,000 metres above sea level, surrounded by tea plantations  It's easy to reach by train.  The station is Nanu Oya, 6 km from central Nuwara Eliya, with plenty of taxis and auto-rickshaws available.  It's also possible to walk.

Peradeniya Junction is 6km (3½ miles) from Kandy.  Take a taxi or tuk-tuk or bus here to board trains for Hatton, Nanu Oya, Elle & Badulla if they don't call at Kandy.

Children under 12 pay half fare, children under 3 travel free.

Traveller's reports...

Traveller Antony Smith reports  "All the windows in the 1st observation car opened fully so, though it was a baking hot day, the carriage was wonderfully breezy and naturally cooled. And yes there are only two pairs of seats with uninterrupted views through the rear observation window, but to be honest the best views are to the sides anyway rather than back down the track.  And there's a great child-like pleasure to be had from sticking your head out of an open side window, which you can't do in the seats directly in front of the rear observation window. I do agree about not wanting to be locked into a 'tour bus' environment with only other tourists for company, but passengers in the 1st observation car on the day we travelled were a real mix of Westerners and Sri Lankans. We took a peek at the ExpoRail 'luxury' carriage (which now also does the train we were on, the 05.55 Podi Menike from Colombo).  It is undoubtedly comfortable, though not luxurious in my opinion, and has the advantage of online booking and on-board catering.  But it lacked the old-fashioned charm of the 1st observation car and looked to be a 100% tourist only experience, mostly tour groups."

Traveller Graeme Thorley reports "I thought the observation car to Kandy was okay although it requires you to travel backwards (in my case at least) which is not to everyone's taste. It also got incredibly hot (36°C at one point) due to the large window and there were only a limited number of seats that had a really good view. Rather irritatingly on my outbound trip two of these were occupied by people who slept for most of the trip..! The other point is that the carriage was occupied almost entirely by Westerners - this might be considered a good thing but personally I felt it left me more remote from the travelling experience.  On the train to Anaradhapura several locals stopped to chat, practise their English, exchange complaints about the delays etc. I also bumped into one of the families I had met on the train whilst sightseeing (they recognised me) and we had another chat. I find that sort of thing an important part of travelling."

Traveller Paul White reports "Don’t panic if you can’t get a ticket for the 1st class air conditioned trains to Kandy.  2nd class is more than adequate, but do try & get a window seat. The best side to sit on for scenery is the right hand side as you face forward from Colombo to Kandy, as this will give you the best views once you get past Rambukkana.  Do be brave and try the food on the trains! Many vendors will wander up and down selling cold drinks, fruit, spicy snacks and so on at reasonable prices."

Also see www.bootsnall.com for a good account of this trip...

Travelling by train in Sri Lanka is a great way to see the scenery...		1st class observation car at the rear of the train, its window looking back along the track.

Observation car:  The Colombo-Kandy 1st class observation car at Colombo Fort.  Photo courtesy of Graeme Thorley		Ordinary 2nd class seats on a Sri Lankan train.  Photo courtesy of Ciao Monteiro

On the train to Kandy.  Photo courtesy of Marilyn Le Ruyet		Looking back along the track from the 1st class observation car.  Courtesy of Marilyn Le Ruyet

New Chinese-built 'Blue trains' have been introduced on several departures on the route from Colombo to Kandy & Badulla.  The first class cars on these trains are air-conditioned and even have video screens, although they are already a bit knocked about!  There is no observation car on thee new blue trains.  Photos courtesy of Roger Smith.

Scenery from the train. Courtesy Sudip Nandy		Kandy station.  Courtesy of Sudip Nandy

Colombo - Galle - Matara

A great way to reach the cities of Galle and Matara, by train along the coast...  2nd class is the recommended option, as 3rd class gets too crowded.  The Colombo-Galle fare is only about Rs.65 (£0.50/$1) one-way in 2nd class for the 116 km.  Colombo to Matara is about Rs.90 2nd class.

ENGINEERING WORK NOW OVER!  Until April/May 2012, a temporary bus service replaced the train for part of the journey, while track was replaced on much of this route following tsunami damage.  However, it's now reported that the work has been completed and trains are running normally again all the way from Colombo to Galle and Matara.

There's no 1st class on this route.  Unless shown otherwise, trains run every day.     How to buy tickets     Hotels in Sri Lanka

2 = unreserved 2nd class seats;

3 = unreserved 3rd class seats;

Raj = Daily except Thursdays, a privately-run Rajadhani Express air-conditioned carriage with reclining leather seats is attached to this train.  Special fare Colombo-Matara 990 rupees (£5.50 or $9), see www.rajadhani.lk for more info & online booking. 

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk, but double-check train times locally.

Children under 12 pay half fare, children under 3 travel free.

Scenery from the train. Courtesy Sudip Nandy		Galle station.  Courtesy of Sudip Nandy

Changing the engine at Galle station. Photo courtesy of Sudip Nandy		Travelling to Galle in the privately-run Rajadhani coach.  Courtesy of Sudip Nandy

Colombo - Trincomalee / Batticaloa

2nd class is recommended on this route, as 3rd class is too crowded.  The Colombo-Trincomalee is 296 km.

(06:10) = Depart Colombo 06:10, arrive Galoya 11:19, change trains, depart Galoya 15:30 for Trincomalee.

(15:25) = Arrive Colombo at 15:25, having changed at Galoya, arrive 08:50, depart 10:15.

ICE = InterCity Express. On this route ICEs have 2nd & 3rd class reserved seats & buffet car, plus a first class reserved seat car.

Sleeper = 1st class sleepers (2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperettes (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet car.

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk, but please double-check all train times locally.

Children under 12 pay half fare, children under 3 travel free.

Colombo - Anuradhapura - Vavunia

Trains link Colombo with Anuradhapura and Vavunia.  However, since 1990 trains no longer operate as far as Jaffna or Talaimannar Pier (previously the ferry terminal for India) because of the security problems in that area.

Lux = A privately-run luxury ExpoRail air-conditioned carriage is attached to this train with at-seat catering & WiFi, see www.exporail.lk with online booking available.  The special fare is around 1,600 rupees one-way (£10 or $16).

ICE = InterCity Express.  On this route ICEs have 2nd & 3rd class reserved seats & buffet car.  The 16:20 from Colombo & the 05:45 from Vavunia also have a 1st class air-conditioned car with reserved seats.

Sleeper = NIGHT MAIL, with 1st class sleepers (2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperettes (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet.

1 = 1st class air-conditioned seats car with reserved seats;

2 = unreserved 2nd class seats; 

3 = unreserved 3rd class seats;

R = buffet/restaurant car;

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk.   How to buy tickets     Hotels in Sri Lanka

Sponsored links...

Hotels & accommodation in Colombo, Kandy & Sri Lanka

Other hotel sites worth trying...

• www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

• www.booking.com is my own preferred hotel booking system (Hotels Combined being a search/comparison system).  It has a simple interface, a good selection in most countries worldwide, useful online customer reviews of each hotel, and decent prices, usually shown inclusive of unavoidable extras such as taxes (a pet hate of mine is systems that show one price, then charge you another!).

Backpacker hostels...

• www.hostelbookers.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelbookers offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

Flights to Sri Lanka

Use the Skyscanner search tool to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines...

Guidebooks...

Recommended guidebooks...

To get the best from Sri Lanka, you'll need a good guidebook.  For independent travellers, the best guides are probably either the Rough Guides or Lonely Planets.

Buy Rough Guide to Sri Lanka online at Amazon.co.uk

Travel insurance

Get travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash (up to a limit) and belongings.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year (I have an annual policy myself).  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

In the UK, try Columbus Direct or use Confused.com to compare prices & policies from many different insurers.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65 (no age limit), see www.JustTravelCover.com.

        If you're resident in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

    If you're resident in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

Get a spare credit card, designed for foreign travel with no currency exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.  If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're not left stranded if your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself.  In addition, some credit cards are significantly better for overseas travel than others.  Martin Lewis's www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money explains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency exchange commission loadings when you buy something overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use an ATM abroad.  Taking this advice can save you quite a lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street bank credit card!

You can avoid ATM charges and expensive exchange rates with a Caxton FX euro currency Visa Card, or their multi-currency 'Global Traveller' Visa Card, see www.caxtonfx.com for info.

Get an international SIM card...

Mobile phones can cost a fortune to use abroad, and if you're not careful you can return home to find some huge bills waiting for you.  I've known people run up a £1,000 bill in data charges just by leaving their iPhone connected during a simple trip to Europe.  However, if you buy a global SIM card for your mobile phone from a company such as www.Go-Sim.com you can slash the cost by up to 85% and limit any damage to the amount you have pre-paid.  It cuts call costs in 175 countries worldwide, and you can receive incoming calls and texts for free in 75 countries.  It's pay-as-you-go, so no nasty bills when you get home.  It also works for laptop or PDA data access.  A Go-Sim account and any credit on it doesn't expire if it's not between trips, unlike some others, so a Go-Sim phone number becomes your 'global phone number' for life.