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How to check Russian train times & fares...

There are several ways to check train times & fares for journeys within Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and the other ex-Soviet republics:

• Use the Real Russia online booking system below.  This links directly to the Russian Railways database for train times & availability, although the prices shown are those charged by Real Russia, which include their booking fee (usually 15%-23% above the ticket office price).  You can use this to book online with Real Russia, a good option.

• Use the Russian Railways website, www.rzd.ru.  This shows up-to-date train times & availability, plus the actual Russian Railways price that you'd pay at the ticket office.  The catch is that it's in Russian, but if you know the Russian alphabet you can still use it even if you don't speak Russian, following this step-by-step guide.

• www.poezda.net is another useful resource for Russian, Ukrainian, and other ex-Soviet states train times.

Travel tips...

• Train fares in Russia are not particularly expensive, although there have been significant price rises over the last few years.  In 2009, Moscow-St Petersburg on a top-quality 'firmeny' sleeper train such as train 1/2 'Red Arrow' costs around 2,200 roubles (£47).  On a lower quality Moscow-St Petersburg overnight train such as train 56, you can find kupé tickets for as little as 1,750 rubles (£37), platskartny berths for 580 rubles (£12), though I'd still recommend taking the better trains.

• Look for trains described as 'firm', short for 'firmeny' which is the top quality category of long-distance fast train with the most modern coaches and a high standard of on board service.

• Russian fares vary by season.  Higher fares are charged at Easter, New Year, July & August, lower fares in January & February.  Higher fares are charged for the fast high-quality 'firmeny' trains, lower fares for slower unnamed low-quality trains.

• On the best trains you can buy tickets either 'without services' (no meals) or 'with services' (meals included, either served in the restaurant or in your compartment).  An example of the sort of meal served can be seen in these photos from the Moscow-Irkutsk-Vladivostok 'Rossiya'.

• Children:  In Russia, one child aged 0 to 4 travels free, children aged 5 to 9 travel at half fare, children aged 10 and over must pay full fare.

Moscow to St Petersburg by train:  A quick guide...

• Moscow-St Petersburg is the most popular route in Russia.  This trip has traditionally been made overnight by comfortable sleeper train (with a hotel bill saved!), though high-speed daytime trains are about to make their appearance.

• The most historic Moscow-St Petersburg overnight train and still one of the best is the 'Krasnya Strela' or 'Red Arrow', train 1 southbound, train 2 northbound, see the photos below.  This was Russia's premier train in Soviet times, and still leaves both Moscow (Oktyabrskaya/Leningradski station) & St Petersburg (Glavny/Oktyabrskaya/Moskovskaya station) at 23:55, arriving around 08:25 next morning.  It has high-quality 2-berth an 4-berth sleepers, plus an expensive deluxe sleeping-car with 2-berth en suite compartments.  Ticket office fare around 4,400 roubles (£93) in spalny vagon (1st class 2-berth) or 2,200 roubles (£47) in kupe (2nd class 4-berth).  It's now been joined by a couple of other quality 'Firmeny' trains running to very similar timings, train 3/4 'Ekspress' and train 5/6 'Nicholaevsky Express'.

• There's now also a privately-run luxury train between St Petersburg and Moscow overnight, the 'Grand Express'.  Fares start from about 3,300 rubles (£65 or $110) for the cheapest of four classes of sleeper, all with in-room TV (note that solo passengers must pay for two tickets for sole occupancy, they cannot share a 2-berth room).  The most expensive rooms have a private shower and toilet.  Their website is www.grandexpress.ru, also see www.cinderellatravel.com/russia_grandexpress_train.php.

• New from 18 December 2009:  The first 'Sapsan' high-speed daytime trains will be introduced between Moscow & St Petersburg taking just 3 hours 45 minutes.  The Sapsan trains are based on the superb German ICE.

• How to check fares & times using the Russian Railways website

• Book Moscow-St Petersburg trains online with Real Russia

Above:  Train number 1, the famous Krasnaya Strela (Red Arrow) from St Petersburg to Moscow.  Photo courtesy of Chris Sparks		Above:  A first class 2-berth sleeper on the Krasnaya Strela, from Moscow to St Petersburg.  Photo courtesy of Chris Sparks

Buy Russian train tickets online...

You can't buy Russian train tickets online direct from Russian Railways, at least not in English, but you can buy them online in English from Real Russia using this booking system.  This system is good for checking Russian train times, too, even if you plan to buy tickets at the ticket office.

How to buy tickets at the station...

The cheapest place to buy Russian train tickets is at the station reservation office.  Here are some tips:

• Remember to take your passport, even if you only want a Russian domestic train ticket.

• Russian train reservations open 45 days before departure, you can't buy tickets before reservations open.

• Russian Railways have an efficient computerised reservation system, and you can book any journey within or out of Russia at the reservation office at any Russian railway station.

• To avoid language problems if you don't speak Russian, it's a good idea to learn the Russian alphabet so you can write down the journey and date you want to show to the ticket office staff.  When writing dates, use roman numerals for the month, or example for '3 June 2008' write '3 VI 2008'.

• People often ask me, "If I go to the ticket office the day before I want to travel, will I find tickets available?".  Well, if you know the Russian alphabet, you can check how many berths in each class are still available on any train on any date within the next 45 days using the Russian Railways website, www.rzd.ru, following the step-by-step guide below.  So you could see how many berths are left today on trains from (say) Moscow to St Petersburg tomorrow or the day after.  This will give you a pretty good idea of how many places are likely to be available if you ask at the station a day or two before departure.

• Many main stations have a 'servis tsentr' (service centre) where you pay a small fee (about 100 rubles) to book your ticket in a relaxed air-conditioned environment.  The extra 100 rubles can be well worth it!

Other agencies who can arrange Russian train tickets...

You can also arrange train travel in Russia through several Russian agencies, including:

• Svezhy Veter - www.sv-agency.udm.ru/sv/trains.htm

• G&R International - www.hostels.ru

• Way to Russia - www.waytorussia.net/Services/TrainTickets.html

• All-Russia Travel Service - www.rusrailtravel.ru

Feedback from 'seat61' correspondents has generally been very positive about the first three of these Russian agencies, nothing has yet been received about the All-Russia agency.  Remember that Russian train reservations only open 45 days before departure, so reservations cannot be confirmed before bookings open - although obviously, you can contact the agency and arrange the booking beforehand.  Some agencies appear to operate a waiting list system for key Trans-Siberian trains.

What are Russian trains like?

The three types of train...

There are three main categories of long-distance train in Russia:

• Firmeny:  These are high-quality trains, often with a name such as 'Krasnaya Strela' (Red Arrow), 'Rossiya' or 'Baikal'.  They have the most modern carriages, often painted in that train's own special colour scheme, usually air-conditioned and with good on-board service.  These are easily the best trains to go for, although the fare is a little higher than for other trains.  They usually have low-numbered train numbers such as '1', '8' or '10', and they usually have a restaurant car serving drinks, snacks and affordable complete meals.  They generally have spalny vagon 2-bed sleepers, kupé 4-bed sleepers and sometimes but not always platskartny open-plan dormitory sleepers.  See below for a description of classes.

• Skory:  Express train.  These usually have spalny vagon 2-berth sleepers, kupé 4-berth sleepers and platskartny sleepers, and many have a restaurant car.  They normally have one or two-digit train numbers, for example '11' or '26'.  Cheaper than travelling on a Firmenny train.

• Passazhirsky:  Ordinary passenger train, often relatively slow and usually using older carriages.  They typically have 3-digit train numbers, for example '904'.  They usually have kupé 4-berth sleepers and platskartny, but not usually spalny vagon 2-berth sleepers.  The cheapest option, but not recommended!

The three classes of accommodation...

Long-distance trains within Russia and the former Soviet republics have three main classes, all designed for both daytime and overnight travel given the distances covered by many trains:

Spalny Vagon (1st class)		2-berth compartments, 9 compartments per coach, with both beds at the lower level either side of the compartment.  Washrooms and toilets are at the end of the corridor.  It's twice the price of travelling kupé, although you get twice the space per passenger, so it's recommended for those who want extra privacy and space and who can afford it.  SV is also known as 'myagky' or 'lyux'.  On the best 'firmenny' trains you can often buy tickets with or without 'service', meaning with or without bedding and meals included. In addition to the normal 2-berth sleepers, the best Moscow-St Petersburg overnight train (the 'Krasnaya Strela or 'Red Arrow') also has two deluxe sleeping-cars with 1- & 2-bed compartments with private toilet and shower and TV / DVD entertainment system.  These deluxe sleepers were introduced in 2004.
Kupé (2nd class)		4-berth compartments, 9 compartments per coach.  Washrooms and toilets are at the end of the corridor.  Kupé is recommended as the class chosen by most visitors to Russia.  On the best 'firmenny' trains you can often buy kupé tickets with or without 'service', meaning with or without bedding and meals included.
Platskartny (3rd class)		Open-plan dormitory cars.  There are 54 bunks per coach, arranged in bays of 4 on one side of the aisle and bays of 2 along the coach wall on the other side of the aisle.  Recommended for the most budget-conscious and adventurous visitors.
Other classes...		Strictly-speaking, you'll also find basic seats on some long distance trains and on local or suburban trains, known as 'Obshchi', but this isn't intended for long-distance travel and is not recommended.  There are now a number of daytime expresses between cities such as Moscow and St Petersburg, and these have comfortable airline-style seating in ordinary and 'business' classes rather than the sleeper-based classes described above.

Above:  Spalny Vagon.  A comfortable 2-berth 'spalny wagon' compartment on a quality 'firmeny' train, in this case the Moscow-Vladivostok 'Rossiya'.  Photo courtesy of Daniel Brewster.		Above:  Kupé.  Lockable 4-berth compartments.  This is an older train - newer coaches have more modern compartments.		Above:  Platskartny.  54 bunks per coach, arranged open-plan in bays of 4 (left of photo) and longitudinal bays of 2 above & below the window (right of photo).

Life on board Russian trains...

Whichever class of travel you choose, each coach is looked after by a pair of attendants called a 'provodnik' (male) or 'provodnitsa' (female).  The provodnik will check your ticket at the door to the sleeper when you board.  Shortly after departure, the provodnik will come round to take your ticket and the small bedding fee (less than £1).  You may be asked if you would like a glass of black Russian tea ('chai') - this costs about 15p.  Bedding (two sheets, pillowcase and towel) is then handed out in sealed packs - blankets and mattresses will already be stacked in your compartment.  After a few journeys, you will become quite proficient at making up your bed!

A samovar with unlimited free hot water is available at the end of the corridor - pack some tea or coffee, sugar, cuppa soups or water-based drinking chocolate and bring your own mug.   Most long distance trains have a restaurant car serving drinks, snacks, and inexpensive full meals - reckon on less than £5 for two courses and a couple of bottles of beer.

Security.  Are Russian trains safe for families or single women?

Yes!  There is no need to worry unduly about security on Russian trains, even for families or women travelling alone. How do you think Russian families or solo women travel?  By train, of course, like everyone else!   Just use common sense as you would in a hotel, locking your door at night and not leaving valuables unattended in your compartment.  In addition to the normal lock on the compartment door, 'Spalny Wagon' and 'kupé' compartments have a security latch which stops the door opening more than an inch or two, and which cannot be released from outside.  There's also a safe place for your bags at night - if you have a bottom bunk, there is a metal box underneath the bunk which you can only get to by lifting up the bunk - in other words, for anyone to get to your bags, they will have to shift you off your bunk first..!  Your provodniks will probably also lock the access doors at each end of the corridor at night to prevent unwanted guests.  Men and women share the same compartments in Russia, but it's generally quite safe for women travelling alone.  If you're a woman and find yourself in sharing with three men that make you uncomfortable, just ask the provodniks (carriage attendants) if they can move you.

Even if you don't speak Russian, if you can understand the Russian alphabet you can use the Russian Railways (RZD) website www.rzd.ru to check current train times, fares & availability within Russia.  The fares shown on their site are the price's you'll pay at the ticket office, useful for comparison with the prices which travel agencies quote you.  www.rzd.ru may also show availability for international trains, but will only give prices for domestic Russian journeys.

Step 1:  Go to www.rzd.ru, and leave it in Russian.  Don't click the 'English' button as this takes you to a few information pages without a journey planner.  Look for the small journey planner box at bottom left, leave it blank and click the grey search button.
Step 2:  Naturally, as you left the form blank you get an error message on the next page.  But click the 'New search' button...
Step 3:  Now we're in business, as here's the full journey planner.  To enter the origin & destination stations, click the red buttons next to each box.  A pop-up appears with a small on-screen Russian keyboard.  Use it to type in the first few (Russian) letters of the station name you want, it will then suggest some station names, select the one you want, click the left-hand red button in the pop-up box  and the station name will then appear in the relevant journey planner box on the main screen. For example, for Moscow type 'MOCKBA', for St Petersburg type 'CAHKT' (= Sankt = 'Saint').  Yekaterinburg is still on the system under the old Soviet name, Sverdlovsk, so type 'CBEP' as the first few letters.  If it offers you a choice of stations, pick one with no station name after it, for example 'MOCKBA (MCK)', as opposed to ones with specific terminal names after the city name, as this will bring up trains to any station within that city.  Or pick one with 'PACC' (= 'Passenger station') after it. When you've successfully populated the journey planner box with origin, destination & date, click the right-hand red button marked 'Zapros' (= 'search').
Step 4:  Now the trains appear, with train number, origin-destination, and available classes.  The 'lamda' = lyux/spalny vagon, K = kupé, the 'Pi' = platskartny.  Click on any of the class symbols and the price screen will appear. If you click on a train's origin-destination, you'll see the complete timetable for that train, showing all stops it makes.
Step 5: Now prices appear, in roubles, for each class (Lyux = spalny vagon = 1st class 2-berth; Kupe = 2nd class 4-berth; Platskartny = 3rd class open-plan bunks).  These are the prices you'd pay at the ticket office.  There may be several prices in each class - these are the price with and without services, which means with and without meals.  Obviously, the lowest price in each class is the 'without services' price. If there's something you don't understand, remember that Google's 'language tools' page will now translate Russian into English.

You should take a good guidebook, and a phrasebook can help too.  I think the Lonely Planets and Rough Guides are about the best there are for the independent traveller, and you will not regret buying one of these!

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk...

Or buy direct from the Lonely Planet website, with shipping worldwide.

Hotels in Moscow, St Petersburg or elsewhere in Russia...

A guidebook like the Lonely Planet or Rough Guides will point you at some good hotels in each town or city when you get there, or you can pre-book a hotel using the search box below.  This links to www.hotelscombined.com, a free search tool which checks all the main hotel booking sites (Expedia, Travelocity, LateRooms, Opodo, Venere, Asiarooms and many others) to find just about the widest range of hotels with the cheapest rates on the net.  Set up in 2005, it's an amazing system and probably the best place to start for booking any hotel online in any country, worldwide.

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