Aboard the Bernina Express...
	The Bernina Express rolls through the fresh snow between Pontresina and St Moritz...
	First class leather seats inside one of the panoramic sightseeing cars on the Bernina Express...
	Second class seats inside one of the panoramic cars on the Bernina Express.  A little less elbow room than in first class, but still very comfortable...
	The Bernina Express climbing towards the summit of the Bernina Pass in winter.  In winter, local coaches are also attached, visible here...
	...and after summiting the pass, the Bernina Express descends towards Italy...  See the video
	In the Engadin Valley...
	Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl:  This is the view over St Moritz from the Muottas Muragl.  The Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl is the building just visible on the right, perched on the mountaintop.
	On the Tirano-Milan regional train... This the 10:20 regional train from Milan to Tirano about to leave Milan Centrale, connecting with the Bernina Express to St Moritz & Chur...
	2nd class seats on the regional train between Tirano and Milan.  1st class seating is also available, with 2+1 seats abreast & power sockets for mobiles & cameras.  But 2nd class is absolutely fine, as you can see here...

Introducing the Bernina Express...

It's one of Switzerland's (and for that matter, the world's) most scenic train rides, comparable to Switzerland's other great scenic train ride, the famous Glacier Express (the debate as to which is better rages on).  The Bernina Express is a narrow gauge train with panoramic sightseeing cars run by the Rhätische Bahn from Chur & St Moritz in eastern Switzerland south to Tirano, just across the border in northern Italy.  It's a 4-hour, 144 km (90 mile) journey from icy Switzerland to sunny Italy, though 55 tunnels and 196 bridges, with Alpine gradients as steep as 1 in 7, on a railway that was built in 1896-1904 and has now been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Between Chur and Samedan near St Moritz, the Bernina Express shares the route with its sister train, the Glacier Express, crossing the famous Landwasser Viaduct from mountainside to mountainside, on which many of the Glacier Express's and Bernina Expresses publicity photos are taken.  South of Pontresina, the train climbs up to the Bernina Pass, past the Morteratsch Glacier, reaching its highest point at Ospizio Bernina, 2,253 metres (7,391 feet) above sea level.  Descending through the fir trees on the other side of the mountain, the train calls at the pretty village of Poschiavo.  Between Poschiavo and Tirano the train runs round the famous Brusio Spiral Viaduct, where most of the classic Bernina Express publicity photos are taken.  In Tirano, the Rhätische Bahn connects with Trenitalia regional trains to Milan, change in Milan for high-speed trains to Florence, Rome or Venice.  For more information about the Bernina Express, see the Bernina Express pages on the official Rhätische Bahn website, www.rhb.ch.  Watch the Bernina Express video guide!

London, Paris or Zurich to Milan via the Bernina Express...

You can travel from London to Italy using Eurostar to Paris then the fast trains to Italy via the fast main line routes as shown on the Italy page.  But why not slow down in at least one direction, and build the Bernina Express into your journey?  This page explains how to travel from London, Paris or Zurich to Italy using the fabulous Bernina Express.  You really, really won't regret it!  See the route map here.

Train times, fares & tickets...

Southbound train times from London to Italy using the Bernina Express

Northbound train times from Italy to London using the Bernina Express

How much does it cost?

How to buy tickets

Bernina Express route map & video guide

Southbound train times: London ► Paris ► Italy

Step 1, London & Paris to Zurich...

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, departing London at 13:31 (14:01 on Saturdays) arriving Paris at 16:47 (17:17 on Saturdays).  Cross Paris by metro to the Gare de Lyon.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Zurich by 200 mph TGV-Lyria train, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 18:23 and arriving Zurich at 22:26.  This particular departure is an impressive double-deck TGV-Duplex, I recommend booking an upper deck seat for the best views.

• By all means catch an earlier service from London to Zurich so you arrive in Zurich in time for dinner, see the Switzerland page for full details of all the London-Zurich Eurostar+TGV options.  Both Eurostar and the TGV-Lyria have a cafe-bar.

• Stay the night in Zurich.  You can search for hotels here.  For something special, look no further than the superb Hotel Schweizerhof, located right next to Zurich station.  One of my favourite hotels, they'll even send a uniformed commissionaire to meet you at the station and carry your bags across the road.

Step 2, Zurich to Milan via the Bernina Express...

• Day 2, travel from Zurich to Chur by Swiss InterCity train.  In winter when the Bernina Express leaves Chur at 08:58 (see next paragraph for dates), you leave Zurich by InterRegional train at 07:12 arriving Chur at 08:43.  In summer when the Bernina Express leaves Chur at 08:32, you'll need to leave Zurich by InterCity train at 06:37, arriving Chur at 07:52.  This is a scenic trip in itself, along the Zürichsee & Walensee lakes and into the mountains.  In Chur, you'll find the Bernina Express waiting for you on the other side of the platform, a quick & easy interchange.

• Day 2, travel from Chur to Tirano on the famous 'Bernina Express'. 

  In winter from 22 October 2012 to 7 May 2013, the panoramic cars of the Bernina Express run attached to ordinary local trains, leaving Chur at 08:58 Mondays-Fridays or 09:31 on Saturdays & Sundays, arriving in Tirano at 13:12 Mondays-Fridays or 13:27 Saturdays & Sundays.

  In summer from 9 May to 20 October 2013, the Bernina Express consists exclusively of panoramic sightseeing cars, seat reservation is obligatory, departing Chur every day at 08:32 and arriving at Tirano in northern Italy at 12:36.

  You should check times at the official Rhätische Bahn website, www.rhb.ch, as it varies on certain dates.  A refreshment trolley comes down the train selling hot and cold drinks, snacks and souvenirs.

  Tip 1:  Going South, the best views are on the right hand side of the train, including the best views of the Landwasser Viaduct, the Ospizio Bernina area and Brusio Spiral, although unfortunately you cannot reserve a seat on a specific side.

  Tip 2:  The Bernina Express panoramic carriages have a small luggage vestibule at the opposite end to the entrance door, this has a small opening window, ideal for taking photographs without reflections.

• Day 2, travel from Tirano to Milan by regional train.  In summer when the Bernina arrives at 12:38, you can leave Tirano at 13:10 and arrive in Milan Centrale at 15:40.  In Autumn and winter when the Bernina arrives at 13:12 or 13:27, you leave Tirano at 15:10 arriving Milan Centrale at 17:40.  In Tirano, the Trenitalia and Rhätische Bahn stations are right next door to each other, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants near the stations.  You may have time for a beer at Margy's bar across the road, or you could catch a later train to Milan and have lunch.  You can use www.trenord.it to find schedules, but pick a date within the next 7 days to see prices.  Bring your own food and drink if you want any, as there is no catering on board the train.  No reservation necessary or even possible for Tirano-Milan trains, just buy a ticket at the station and hop on, remembering to validate your ticket in the little yellow machine at the platform entrance.  This is a pretty run, through more mountains and along the shores of Lake Como via Lecco.

• Day 2, change in Milan for inter-city trains to Florence, Rome, Verona & Venice - use www.trenitalia.com to find trains departing Milan any time after 16:20 (summer) or 18:20 (winter), to allow time for any delay to the train from Tirano.

Other options...

• Overnight in St Moritz area instead of Zurich?  If you'd prefer to stay overnight in the St Moritz-Pontresina area, you can leave London on the 09:17 Eurostar (09:31 Saturdays, 09:23 Sundays) and travel all the way to the St Moritz or Pontresina on day 1 as shown here.  Consider staying at the fabulous Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl, an amazing hotel perched on the top of a mountain, with clean simple and (for Switzerland) inexpensive rooms.  Formerly called the Muottas Muragl Berghotel, it's reached via the Muottas Muragl funicular railway (opened in 1907) from Punt Muragl station, half way between St Moritz and Pontresina.  On day 2, there's a separate Bernina Express St Moritz portion leaving St Moritz at 09:29 and Pontresina at 09:52, arriving Tirano at 12:02 (for winter times see www.rhb.ch).  In fact, in winter, when the Bernina Express runs attached to a regular train, it will stop at Punt Muragl on request, just signal the driver.  Then carry on to Milan on the 13:10 local train arriving Milano Centrale at 15:40.

• For a more leisurely journey, it could be spread over three days instead of two.  Why not stop off for a second night at Poschiavo, a pretty town on the Bernina Express route?

• Travel London to Chur via the scenic Rhine Valley?  Again spreading the London-Milan trip over 3 days, how about a morning train from London to Cologne or Koblenz on day 1 from €59 (see the London to Germany page), spend an afternoon and night there, then on day 2 take one of the direct EuroCity trains from Cologne & Koblenz along the scenic Rhine Valley past the famous Lorelei Rock to Chur, from €39 booked at www.bahn.de.  Stay in the little town of Chur overnight before taking the Bernina Express to Tirano in the morning on day 3?  This route also saves having to cross Paris.

• My own top choice for a journey from London to Italy spread over 3 days would be (a) London-St Moritz on day 1, taking a good book and an equally good bottle of red, (b) two nights at the Muottas Muragl Berghotel giving a full day to wander around the area and relax, then (c) the fabulous 'Bernina Express' over the Bernina Pass into Italy on day 3.  If you do this, staying at the Muottas Muragl Berghotel and use the Bernina Express, do email me to let me know how absolutely right you think I am (!).

• Day 1, travel from Venice, Verona, Florence or Rome to Milan by high-speed train - use www.trenitalia.com to find trains arriving in Milan Centrale no later than 09:40, to allow for any delay.

• Day 1, travel from Milan to Tirano by regional train, departing Milan Centrale at 10:20 arriving Tirano at 12:50.  This is a pretty run, half an hour out of Milan you're already passing through mountains and along the shores of Lake Como via Lecco.  Bring your own food and drink if you want it, as there is no catering on this train.  Milan-Tirano trains run every 2 hours, no reservation is necessary or even possible on these local trains, it's really easy to buy a ticket at the station from one of the many self-service machines and hop on the next one - just remember to validate your ticket in the small yellow machine at the platform entrance.  You can check Milan-Tirano train times at www.trenord.it.  In Tirano, the Trenitalia and Rhätische Bahn stations are right next door to each other, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants near the stations.  If you take the earlier 08:20 train from Milan you can have lunch in Tirano, if you take the 10:20 you still have time for a baguette and beer at Margy's bar across the road.

• Day 1, travel from Tirano to Chur by Bernina Express. 

  In winter from 22 October 2012 to 8 May 2013, the Bernina Express panoramic cars run attached to a local train, leaving Tirano at 14:33 on Mondays-Fridays or 14:04 on Saturdays & Sundays, arriving Chur at 19:03 on Mondays-Fridays or 18:27 on Saturdays & Sundays. 

  In summer from 12 May until 21 October 2012, the Bernina Express runs as a separate train consisting entirely of panoramic cars, leaving Tirano at 14:04 every day and arriving Chur at 18:27. 

  Always check the timetable at www.rhb.ch, as it varies on certain holiday dates.  Allow at least an hour to connect in Tirano.  A refreshment trolley comes down the train aboard the Bernina Express.

  Tip 1:  Going North, the best views are on the left-hand side of the train, including the best views of the Brusio Spiral, the Ospizio Bernina area and the Landwasser Viaduct, although unfortunately you cannot reserve a seat on a specific side.

  Tip 2:  The Bernina Express panoramic carriages have a small luggage vestibule at the opposite end to the entrance door, this has a small opening window, ideal for taking photographs without reflections.

• Day 1, travel from Chur to Zurich by Swiss InterCity train, departing Chur at 18:39 arriving Zurich at 19:53, or departing Chur at 19:09 arriving Zurich at 20:23, depending on what time your Bernina Express arrives.  These InterCity trains run every half hour, and at Chur you'll find it waiting on the opposite side of the platform where the Bernina Express arrives, a quick and easy interchange.  The journey is quite scenic in itself, along the Walensee and Zürichsee lakes.

Step 2, Zurich to Paris & London...

• Stay the night in Zurich.  You can search for hotels here.  For something special, look no further than the superb Hotel Schweizerhof, located right next to Zurich station.  One of my favourite hotels, they'll even send a uniformed commissionaire to meet you at the station and carry your bags across the road.

• Day 2, travel from Zurich to Paris by high-speed TGV-Lyria train, departing Zurich 07:34 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 11:37.  Cross Paris by metro to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, departing Paris Gare du Nord at 13:13 and arriving London St Pancras at 14:39.

• Later trains from Zurich to Paris to London are available if you'd like a leisurely breakfast and a later departure from Zurich, see the Switzerland page for all the Zurich to London options.  Both TGV-Lyria and Eurostar trains have a cafe-bar.

Other options...

• If you'd prefer to stay overnight in the St Moritz-Pontresina area, you can take a separate section of the Bernina Express leaving Tirano at 14:22 and arriving Pontresina at 16:26 and St Moritz at 16:39 (for winter times see www.rhb.ch).  Consider staying at the Muottas Muragl Berghotel, an amazing hotel perched on the top of a mountain, with clean simple and (for Switzerland) inexpensive rooms.  It's reached via the Muottas Muragl funicular railway from Punt Muragl station, half way between St Moritz and Pontresina.  In winter, when the Bernina Express runs attached to a regular train, it will stop at Punt Muragl on request.  In summer when it's a separate train, you'll have to change at Pontresina for Punt Muragl.  Next day, travel from St Moritz to Paris & London as shown here.

• For a more leisurely journey, it could be spread over three instead of two days.  Why not stop off for a night at Poschiavo, a pretty town on the Bernina Express route?

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £39 one-way or £69 return.  Book early for the cheapest fares.

• Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria starts at £23 (€25) each way if booked in advance, rising to £99 full-price.  There's a detailed fares table on the Switzerland page.  Book early for the cheapest fares.

• Zurich to Chur costs CHF 38 (about £28) each way in 2nd class, CHF 63 (£47) in 1st class.  Fixed price, no reservation necessary, can be bought at the station.

• Chur to Tirano by Bernina Express costs CHF 58 (£43) in 2nd class, CHF 96 (£71) in 1st class for the basic ticket, plus a reservation fee for the Bernina Express of CHF 9 (£7) in winter, CHF 12 (£9) in summer.  Reservation is required for the Bernina Express itself, although other trains on the same route do not require reservations.

• Tirano to Milan by Trenord regional train costs €10.75 (£9) in 2nd class or €16.15 (£14) in 1st class.  Fixed price, no reservation necessary, can easily be bought at the station. Check times at www.trenord.it.

• If you want to go to Italy one way via the Bernina Express and the other by faster mainline trains, you'll find time and fares for the mainline options on the Italy page.

How to buy tickets...

You can book the whole trip online, with cheaper fares for key sections if you book ahead.  However, it takes several bookings on several websites, so take a note of the specific individual trains you want to book on which specific dates, and first do a dry run on each site to check prices and availability.  Then book for real.  Booking opens 90 days ahead, you can't buy tickets until booking opens.  Here's how to arrange your trip:

• Step 1, London to Paris & Paris to Zurich:  If you live in the UK, go to www.raileurope.co.uk.  First buy your tickets from London to Paris and back, and add to basket.  Click 'continue shopping' and book a TGV Lyria ticket from Paris to Zurich.  If you're coming back (say) direct from Milan to Paris by TGV, you can click 'continue shopping' again and add this to your basket too. 

  If you live outside the UK, you should book London-Paris at the Eurostar website www.eurostar.com, then Paris-Zurich at the official French railways English-language site www.tgv-europe.com.  Reservation is required for all these trains, and cheap fares are available if you pre-book as soon as possible after booking opens, 90 days before departure.

• Step 2, Zurich to Chur:  This is easy.  A ticket from Zurich to Chur can be bought at the station in Zurich, with no need to pre-book nor any advantage in doing so.  The price is fixed and reservations aren't necessary or even possible, so there's no advantage in buying a ticket in advance except to save time at the ticket office.  You can check prices and (if you like) buy a self-print online ticket at www.sbb.ch, or (if you're going Zurich to Tirano all in one day) you can buy a ticket from Zurich all the way through to Tirano as part of the Bernina Express booking process, see the next paragraph.

• Step 3, buy tickets for the Bernina Express:  You can buy tickets for the Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano direct from the operator at www.rhb.ch (click the 'EN' top right for English, then click 'Bernina Express').  Reservation is required for the Bernina Express panoramic train (although not for the regular local trains on the same route) and it can sell out in summer.  Booking tip:  When you use www.rhb.ch you'll find it's a two-stage process, first choosing and reserving your Chur-Tirano seats on the Bernina Express, then buying a travel ticket to go with it, and paying for reservation and ticket together at the end.   When you buy the actual ticket in the second stage, you can buy it from Zurich to Tirano if you like, so it will cover the Zurich-Chur part of your trip as well!  Note that it appears that you can buy Chur to Tirano tickets at www.raileurope.co.uk, but this system doesn't make the compulsory reservation for you, it just sells an open ticket, still leaving you with the need to make the reservation.

• Step 4, Tirano to Milan:  This is easy, just buy a ticket for the regional train from Tirano to Milan at the station when you get to Tirano.  Reservation is neither necessary nor possible, it cannot sell out, just buy a ticket and hop on the next train.  If you want to check times & prices, go to www.trenord.it and do an enquiry, but pick a date within the next 7 days as fares for regional trains only show up 7 days or less before departure.

• Step 5, Milan to Florence, Rome or Venice:  Buy your onward tickets from Milan to Florence, Rome, Venice or anywhere in Italy at either www.italiarail.com (easy to use, in plain English, they'll refund seat61 users the €3.50 booking fee if you email seat61@italiarail.com with your PNR) or Italian Railways own website www.trenitalia.com (requires Italian-language place names and has a few quirks especially when booking sleepers, but no booking fee, see this advice on how to use it).  Tickets can be collected at the station in Italy, or for Frecciarossa and InterCity trains it's ticketless, you simply quote your booking reference on board.  Booking opens 90 or sometimes 120 days ahead, depending on the train.  Advice on train travel within Italy.

Tailor-made journeys with trains & hotels all arranged for you...

If you want a compete tailor-made trip to Italy via the Bernina Express with all your rail travel expertly booked for you and good quality hotels arranged, I recommend Railbookers.  Just tell them what you want, and they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out for you, hassle-free.  They get very positive reviews and take good care of their guests.

  www.railbookers.com, in the UK call 020 3327 0761, . 

www.us.railbookers.com, call toll-free 1-800-408-3280.

www.railbookers.com.au in Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526.

  In New Zealand see website or call toll-free 0800 002 034.

Useful links...

• Official Rhätische Bahn Bernina Express website:  www.rhb.ch.  Swiss railways map:  Swiss rail map

• Wikipedia:  Bernina Express,  Albula Railway (Chur-St Moritz), Bernina Railway (St Moritz-Tirano), Landwasser Viaduct, Brusio Spiral Viaduct.

Bernina Express - The video guide

A guide to the journey from Milan to Zurich, by regional train Milan-Tirano, the fabulous Bernina Express to Chur and InterCity train to Zurich...

Point-to-point tickets are the best bet for the straightforward Bernina Express journey recommended above.  But if you plan to make additional side trips whilst in Switzerland, consider getting a railpass.  Switzerland is one of the few remaining European countries where relatively high point-to-point rail fares and the lack of compulsory reservations & supplements makes railpasses both good value and convenient.  You can buy your passes online from the Switzerland Travel Centre, a subsidiary of Swiss Federal Railways.  The Swiss Travel System people can also make the seat reservations necessary for the few panoramic sightseeing trains that require them, such as the Glacier Express.

A Swiss Transfer Ticket covers one return journey from your point of entry into Switzerland (an airport, frontier or the first stop inside Switzerland of any TGV-Lyria train from Paris) to anywhere within Switzerland, using Swiss Federal Railways, private railways and even post buses.

A Swiss Pass gives unlimited travel across the Swiss travel system for varying periods.  Swiss rail fares are expensive, so a pass can save money.  You can compare the pass price with point-to-point fares checked at www.sbb.ch.  Map of Swiss routes showing which routes are covered by a Swiss rail pass and which only give a 50% discount for passholders.

Find hotels in Switzerland...

Holidays to Switzerland by train...

	020 3327 0761 (UK) 1-800-408-3280 (USA) 1300 971 526 (Aus) 0800 002 034 (NZ)
	01904 730 727 (UK)
	01904 527120 (UK)
	020 7619 1080 Pls quote 'seat61'

If you want someone else to organise all the train tickets & hotels for you, several specialist companies do just that.  Railbookers & Erail offer tailor-made individual holidays with departure on any date you like, whereas Treyn Holidays & Great Rail Journeys offer escorted tours with specific departure dates.

Railbookers tailor-made holidays & breaks by train....

Railbookers can tailor-make a European tour, flight-free holiday or short break to Switzerland for you, with train travel & hotels, for however long you like, leaving on any date you like.  They can book you on the Bernina Express to Italy.

  UK call 020 3327 0761, www.railbookers.com. 

Call toll-free 1-800-408-3280 or www.us.railbookers.com.

Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, www.railbookers.com.au. 

  New Zealand call toll-free 0800 002 034 or see website.

Treyn Holidays, www.railholidays.com, 01904 730 727:  Escorted tours...

Treyn Holidays offers several train-based tours to Switzerland, with 3* hotels and travel from London by Eurostar and high-speed TGV.  Check details at www.railholidays.com, then book online or call 01904 730 727.

Great Rail Journeys, www.greatrail.com, 01904 527120:  Escorted tours...

GRJ offers five-star inclusive tours to Switzerland, with 1st class train travel and 5* hotels.  Tours depart regularly throughout much of the year.  Check the tour details online, then call 01904 527120 to book or use their online booking form.

Erail, www.erail.co.uk, 020 7619 1080  (please quote 'Seat61.com' when you call)...

If you prefer to travel on your own unescorted with departure on any date you like, Erail offers tours to Switzerland by train from the UK.