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Italy here we come! The afternoon TGV from Paris to Turin & Milan waits to leave the Gare de Lyon
Italy the civilised way. A face-to-face table for two in 1st class on the TGV to Milan.
Italy the scenic way. A 300 km/h dash on the high-speed line, then a slow meander through the French Alps into Italy. See the photos. Watch the video! |
Paris to Italy from €29
Every day, three TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) high-speed trains link Paris with Turin & Milan, run by SNCF (French Railways). Since December 2021 they've faced competition from two Frecciarossa high-speed trains run by Trenitalia (Italian Railways).
Whichever operator you choose, it's an exhilarating high-speed dash from Paris to Lyon at up to 300 km/h (186 mph) followed by a leisurely meander through the scenic French Alps on the classic line into Italy.
Change in Turin or Milan for Venice, Florence & Rome: The civilised, relaxing & scenic way from Paris to Italy, without the pain of the plane. Watch the TGV video!
IMPORTANT UPDATE: On 27 August 2023, the Paris-Milan line was blocked by a landslide in the French Alps and is likely to remain blocked until March 2025. All direct Paris-Turin-Milan TGV & Frecciarossa services are cancelled until further notice. See the landslide on video.
Alternative Paris-Milan routes via Geneva, Basel or Zurich are open, see alternative Paris-Milan trains.
A once-daily Paris-Turin-Milan TGV service has resumed, incorporating a bus around the landslide in the middle of the journey, see below.
Temporary TGV service currently running:
One 'direct' Paris-Turin-Milan TGV is currently running every day in both directions on the direct route via Modane.
Paris Gare de Lyon depart 14:48, Turin Porta Susa 21:46, Milan Porta Garibaldi 23:10.
Milan Porta Garibaldi depart 15:10, Turin Porta Susa depart 16:39, Paris Gare de Lyon 23:40.
Although shown as direct, there's a bus ride in the middle from Saint-Jean de Maurienne to Modane around the section affected by the landslide. It's usually cheaper than the all-train route via Switzerland shown here, but involves a bus.
Timetable southbound: Cancelled
Timetable northbound: Cancelled
Notes for the timetable
* The 12:46 Paris-Milan TGV is randomly replaced by the 09:43 on weekdays on various dates, it's a mess.
** The 06:35 Frecciarossa runs on a few dates instead of the 07:25, check times when you book.
*** The 14:10 Milan-Paris TGV is randomly replaced by the 12:10 on weekdays on various dates, it's a mess.
Times vary slightly on different dates, especially the French TGV, check times when you book.
TGV = Train à Grande Vitesse, a high-speed train run by SNCF (French Railways).
Frecciarossa = High-speed Frecciarossa train run by Trenitalia (Italian Railways) starting 18 December 2021.
Paris to Turin by Frecciarossa is 739 km (459 miles). Paris to Milan is 881 km (547 miles).
Check trains for your date at www.raileurope.com or www.thetrainline.com. For connections to or from London, see the London to Italy page.
Connections from Paris to Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples: Paris to Venice, Paris to Florence, Paris to Rome, Paris to Naples
Connections from Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples to Paris: Venice to Paris, Florence to Paris, Rome to Paris, Naples to Paris
How much does it cost?
Return fares are twice the one-way.
Advance-purchase = book in advance, price varies like air fares, TGV advance fares mean limited/no refunds.
All Frecciarossa fares are refundable less 20%, so can be cancelled & changed.
Full-price = Refundable and flexible. There are no senior or youth reductions.
Child fare = Child 4-11 years ( TGV) or 4-13 years (Frecciarossa). Use an adult advance-purchase fare if cheaper. Children under 4 free.
Railpass fare: What you pay is you have a Eurail or Interrail pass. Normal tickets can be cheaper! The Frecciarossa isn't included in Interrail/Eurail.
How to buy tickets
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Which website should you use?
(1) www.raileurope.com. Easy to use, in plain English, in €, £ or $. It can book both TGV & Frecciarossa. It can also book onward trains in Italy, both Trenitalia & Italo, and can book Eurostar. Offers basic seating options. You can book from Paris to Venice, Florence or Rome (or vice versa) as one booking. Small booking fee. Who are Raileurope?
(2) www.thetrainline.com. Easy to use, in plain English, in €, £ or $. It can book both TGV & Frecciarossa. It can also book onward trains in Italy, both Trenitalia & Italo and can book Eurostar so you can book from Paris to Venice, Florence or Rome (or vice versa) as one booking. Small booking fee. Thetrainline allows you to select your exact seat from a seat map for a small fee when booking the Frecciarossa, and to choose your seat from a seat map for free if booking 1st class on a TGV. Who are Thetrainline?
(3) www.italiarail.com. Easy to use, in plain English, in €, £ or $. Can book the Frecciarossa, but not the TGV. It can also book trains within Italy, so it can book tickets between Paris and most Italian towns & cities as one transaction. www.italiarail.com allows you to choose your exact seat from a seat map on the Frecciarossa and on mainline trains within Italy. They'll refund their €3.50 booking fee to seat61 users if you email them at seat61@italiarail.com after booking.
(4) www.sncf-connect.com. SNCF's own website, in €. It can only book the TGV, not the Frecciarossa, but there's no booking fee and it allows you to select your exact seat from a seat map if booking 1st class. It cannot book or trains within Italy.
(5) www.trenitalia.com. Trenitalia's website, in €. It can book the Frecciarossa & Trenitalia trains in Italy, but not the TGV or Italo or Eurostar.
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When do bookings open?
Booking for TGV opens up to 4 months ahead. Booking for Frecciarossa opens up to 6 months ahead. Booking for dates immediately after the mid-December timetable change usually opens later than normal, typically mid-October. More about when European train booking opens.
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How are tickets delivered?
For the TGV you print your own ticket or can show it on your phone. The Frecciarossa is ticketless, you simply you simply print out your booking reference or show it on your phone.
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Passholder reservations: Make reservations for the TGV to go with an Interrail or Eurail pass as shown here.
Route map
TGV & Frecciarossa take the same route, with two variations: (1) The Frecciarossa goes through central Lyon calling at Lyon Part Dieu. The TGV by-passes Lyon on the high-speed line. (2) The Frecciarossa uses the high-speed line between Turin & Milan, shown in red on the map. The TGV uses the classic line, shown in black.
Which train to choose?
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Facilities: Both TGV & Frecciarossa have a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.
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Scenery: Both trains take a similar route through the same scenery. No difference here.
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Price: Both TGV & Frecciarossa start at €29. But prices vary like air fares, so compare prices on both!
If you have kids, under-14s qualify for a child rate on Frecciarossa, but only under-12s qualify on TGV. Advantage Frecciarossa!
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Interrail & Eurail passes: The TGV is covered by Interrail & Eurail, but the Frecciarossa isn't. Within France it's run by separate subsidiary company Trenitalia France which is not a party to the Interrail & Eurail schemes. However, the TGV has a €30+ passholder reservation fee, regular fares for the Frecciarossa start from only €29 if you book in advance, so even if you're using a pass you should consider the Frecciarossa.
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Speed & timetable: Remarkably similar. The Frecciarossa is slightly slower than the TGV between Paris & Turin because it goes through the centre of Lyon, the TGV by-passes Lyon on the high-speed line. But between Turin & Milan, the Frecciarossa uses the high-speed line, the TGV has to use the classic line as it isn't fitted with the necessary signalling system. Swings & roundabouts, so little difference here either.
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Comfort & service: Both trains are comfortable, but the Frecciarossa is the newer and more glamorous train with better on-board service.
The TGVs have been in service for a decade or two. The interior was originally styled by French designer Christian Lacroix, but it's been watered down by recent refurbishment. In 1st class, random lime green seats used to brighten up the grey, now all seats are grey. The original attractive patterned carpet is also now plain grey. That's what railway maintenance engineers do to designer interiors.
The Frecciarossa makes a much better impression, with an interior styled by Italian design firm Pininfarina.
The TGV has 1st & 2nd class, no food or drink is included. With a 1st class ticket you can use the Salon Grand Voyageur in Paris.
The Frecciarossa has 3 classes, standard (= 2nd class), business (= 1st class) and super-luxurious executive class, just 10 superb rotating and reclining seats at one end of the train.
Business class on the Frecciarossa comes with complimentary coffee, juice & snacks such as a morning croissant. In the afternoon, you may even get a complimentary prosecco.
Executive class has a more comprehensive food & drink service included in the fare, served at your seat on proper china. Nothing on the TGV matches executive class! With an executive class ticket you can use the Freccia Club lounge in Milan.
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Station in Milan: The Frecciarossa has a significant advantage, it uses the magnificent Milan Centrale, an attraction in its own right and better for onward connections to Genoa, Pisa, Florence, Rome & Naples. The TGV uses the still-central but less glamorous Milan Porta Garibaldi, you'll probably need to take a taxi, metro or local train to Milan Centrale for onward connections. However, if using the TGV you can avoid having to change stations in Milan by making an easy same-station change at Turin Porta Susa onto a train to Florence, Rome or Naples. Just be aware that trains from Turin to these cities run less frequently than trains from Milan.
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Passenger rights: Also significant. If you take a TGV from Paris to Turin or Milan to connect with an onward Trenitalia train, that's two separate contracts of carriage. If there's a delay and you miss the connection, you may be helped out, but legally you have no rights (more about this issue here). Which is why I suggest allowing at least 45 minutes between trains in Turin or Milan when combining TGV & Trenitalia, ideally more. But if you take Trenitalia's Frecciarossa to connect with another Trenitalia train, that's a single contract of carriage and you have a legal right to be rebooked on a later onward train if the Frecciarossa is late and you miss the connection. So a 20-minute connection would be fine, if offered by the booking system.
For a similar reason, if travelling to & from London by Eurostar, you are protected by the Railteam arrangement when connecting between Eurostar & TGV in Paris as Eurostar & SNCF are members of Railteam, but you would not be protected when connecting across Paris between Eurostar & Frecciarossa. So either allow more time in Paris (2 hours, not 1) when using the Frecciarossa, or stick to using TGV when making a same-day London-Paris-Milan connection.
What's the TGV like?
SNCF has equipped 6 TGVs with the Italian SCMT signalling system so they can enter Italy. They've been running since 1996, originally operated jointly by SNCF (French Railways) and Trenitalia (Italian State Railways), but since 2011 they've been run entirely by SNCF, entering Italy as an 'open access' operator with no Trenitalia involvement.
The TGV is air-conditioned and carpeted with comfortable 1st & 2nd class seating. 2nd class has tables for 4 and 2-abreast unidirectional seating. 1st class offers wider seats with more leg-room, with a mix of face-to-face tables for two, tables for 4, and unidirectional seating with 2-abreast seats & 1-abreast 'solo' seats. 1st class TGV passengers can use the Grand Voyageurs 1st class lounge at Paris Gare de Lyon. See the Paris-Milan video.
The TGV's interior is styled by designer Christian Lacroix, watered-down by recent refurbishment with the original random lime-green 1st class seats now all grey. SNCF's experienced in-house designer still hasn't forgiven Christian Lacroix for breaking the unwritten rule and using warm colours in 2nd class, cooler colours in 1st class! These trainsets are likely to remain in service until replaced by new-generation double-deck TGV Duplex trains in 2026.
Cafe-bar: There's a cafe-bar serving drinks, snacks & light meals, or feel free to bring your own food & wine along. If catching the afternoon TGV from Paris, how about lunch first at the remarkable Train Bleu Restaurant at the Gare de Lyon?
Power sockets: There are power sockets at all seats. There are baby-changing facilities and designated spaces for passengers in wheelchairs.
WiFi: SNCF equipped these international TGVs with free WiFi in 2019, so you should find WiFi available with the network appearing as Le WiFi. If you have a 3G or 4G mobile data package, that will work fine along the majority of this route.
Seat map: See Paris-Milan TGV seat map.
What's the Frecciarossa like?
Trenitalia's Frecciarossa 1000 has 3 classes, Standard, Business and Executive. In Italy, Frecciarossas have 4 classes, but on the Paris-Milan route Premium class seats (identical to Standard but brown instead of grey) are sold as Standard. There's a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Business class includes complimentary coffee, juice and snacks such as a morning croissant. Executive class includes a more comprehensive food & drink service. The Frecciarossa is capable of 360 km/h (223 mph) but in service it's limited to 30 0km/h (186 mph) on the French & Italian high-speed lines, shown in red on the route map below.
Seat map: See Frecciarossa 1000 seat map
What's the journey like? See the video
1. Paris Gare de Lyon. The train leaves from the magnificent Gare de Lyon in central Paris. See Gare de Lyon station guide.
Hall 1 at the Gare de Lyon. The TGV may leave from Hall 1 or 2, the Frecciarossa usually leaves from Hall 1.
Lunch at the famous Train Bleu restaurant at the Gare de Lyon before catching the Italy Express? Larger photo.
Or a coffee or beer in the bar (above right), which makes an excellent VIP waiting lounge.
The train accelerates through the suburbs then speeds across France at up to 300 km/h (186 mph) past fields, woods & pretty villages.
After south of Lyon the train slows right down and starts snaking through the Alpine foothills.
The train crosses the Alps, calling at Chambéry.
The train finally reaches Modane, the last station in France. There's a chance to stretch your legs here. Shortly after Modane, the train passes through the Fréjus Rail Tunnel, also known less accurately as the Mont Cénis tunnel, 13.6 km (8.5 mile) long. Opened in 1871, this the oldest of the large tunnels through the Alps, and was the longest tunnel in the world from 1871 until 1882 when the Gotthard tunnel opened on the Zurich-Milan route. During the 7 minute tunnel transit, the train enters Italy.
Scenery between Oulx and Turin. Courtesy of Discoverbyrail.com
Video guide: Paris to Milan by TGV
The video shows both the train & the scenery on a journey from Paris to Turin & Milan.
Travel tips
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Should you go 1st or 2nd class on the TGV?
2nd class is absolutely fine, no need to pay for 1st class unless you can afford it. There's no food or drink included in 1st class, it's just the extra elbow and leg room you're paying for. On the other hand, first class seats are arranged 2+1 across the car width, so there are 'solo' seats and tables for two in 1st class as well as dual-side-by-side and tables for four which you'll also find in 2nd class where seats are 2+2 across the car width. Prices vary like air fares so sometimes 1st class only costs a little more than 2nd class, see what prices you get for each class before deciding.
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Should you go standard, business or executive on the Frecciarossa?
Standard class is perfectly comfortable, but business class gets you more elbow & leg room & bigger seats. In business class seats are 2+1 across the car width so there are 'solo' seats and face-to-face tables for two on one side of the aisle as well as the dual-side-by-side and tables-for-four on the other. You can choose to select seats from a seat map if you book at www.italiarail.com or www.thetrainline.com. You get a complimentary welcome drink of coffee or maybe prosecco in business class. Executive class is lovely, with complimentary food & drink served by a dedicated steward, with luxurious rotatable seats with full recline and leg support. Only 10 seats per train, but if you can afford it you won't regret it.
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Forward-facing seats?
On the Frecciarossa, you can't tell which seats will face forward as the train could enter service either way round. On the TGV, car 11 is normally at the rear and car 18 at the front going south from Paris, car 18 is at the front and car 11 at the rear when going north from Milan. You can choose your seat from a seat map if you book 1st class at either www.sncf-connect.com or www.thetrainline.com.
However, for 3 or 4 people I'd recommend 4 seats around a table (4-seater or family or carré) as this is far more convivial than two of you staring at the back of the other two's heads. In first class for two people I suggest a table for two (face-to-face or club duo) as the nicest seating option, as you each get a seat which is both aisle and window and one of the two seats will always be facing forwards.
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Advertising vinyls obscuring the windows in Frecciarossa cars 1 & 8
Trenitalia has put vinyl advertising wraps over the end car (car 8, sometimes also car 1) on several Frecciarossa trainsets and the wraps cover the windows, obscuring the view. Until they learn not to do this, I strongly recommend avoiding any seat in car 8, which means all standard class silenzio seats. The problem may also affect car 1 (executive class) on at least one trainset.
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Give your infant or baby their own seat on the TGV
Infants under 4 go free on both the TGV and Frecciarossa, no need to buy them a ticket, just bring them along. However, if they go free they don't qualify for their own seat, they go on your lap.
On Paris-Milan TGVs you can give them their own seat for a flat-fare €9 Billet Bambin. Well worth it! Simply add your infant to your booking with their correct date of birth.
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The best place to wait for the train
In Paris, I recommend using the bar or having lunch at the famous Train Bleu restaurant on the main concourse (Hall 1) at the Gare de Lyon. Opened in 1901, it's a listed national monument and an experience in itself. You can reserve a table for lunch or dinner online at www.le-train-bleu.com. If you don't want a meal, use the Big Ben bar as your first class lounge.
1st class international passengers on the TGV can use the Grand Voyageurs 1st class lounge at Paris Gare de Lyon.
Executive class passengers on the Frecciarossa can use the Freccia Club lounge at Milan Centrale, there's no lounge in Paris.
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Boarding the train
There's easy level access from street to concourse to platform at Paris Gare de Lyon. There is no check-in for either TGV or Frecciarossa, you can wander off the street, onto the station concourse, see which platform your train will go from on the various departure screens, then go to that platform.
At Paris Gare de Lyon there are ticket gates at the entrance to each platform, simply place the QR code on your ticket in front of the scanner any time up to 2 minutes before the train goes and the gate will open.
In Paris, the actual platform number may not be posted until 20 minutes before departure, but the departure boards at the Gare de Lyon will tell you whether it will leave from Hall 1 (blue, platforms A to N, main concourse) or Hall 2 (yellow, platforms 5-23) so you can wait on the right concourse close to where the train will leave. The more historic concourse with platforms A to N and the famous Train Bleu Restaurant is Hall 1, the newer concourse accessed along platform A or through the ticket hall is Hall 2. See Paris Gare de Lyon station guide.
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Luggage
Luggage works on the Paris-Milan TGV & Frecciarossa just like other European trains. Your bags aren't checked in, you simply take them onto the train and put them on the racks above your seat or between the seats or at the car ends. It's as simple as that.
TGV luggage limits: Since February 2024 SNCF has had a more formal luggage policy for its TGVs which will be enforced from September: There are no weight limits, but you must be able to carry it yourself in one go. You can carry either 1 hand luggage + 2 suitcases or 1 hand luggage + 1 suitcase + 1 specific item. Your hand luggage can measure up to 40 cm x 30 cm x 15 cm. Your suitcase(s) can measure up to 90 cm x 70 cm x 50 cm. Your specific item (musical instrument, pushchair, bike in cover, folded bike, scooter) can measure up to 130 cm x 90 cm. Bikes, musical instruments, snowboards, and skis must be under a labelled cover. You can travel with your pair of skis, without a maximum size, one pair per person. If you exceed these limits there's a €50 fee, but it's not yet clear how tough staff will be.
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Bikes
Undismantled bikes are not carried on either TGV or Frecciarossa. Bikes are carried on the TGVs free of charge as ordinary luggage if they are semi-dismantled and placed in a zip-up bike bag not exceeding 120cm x 90cm. See the Taking bikes on trains page.
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Dogs & pets
Pets can be taken on the TGV: Small dogs in containers free, larger dogs on a lead & muzzled, €10.
Pets can also be taken on the Frecciarossa: Small dogs under 5 Kg free, dogs 5-50 Kg on a lead & muzzled €30, dogs only allowed in standard & business class allegro (non-quiet) cars.
See the Taking dogs on trains page.
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Hotels in Milan
If you are stopping overnight in Milan, the AC Milan Hotel (a Marriott Lifestyle Hotel) is 350 yards from Milan Porta Garibaldi with good reviews. Hotels near Milan Centrale with good reviews include the Made to Measure Business, 43 Station Hotel, Starhotel Echo or Starhotel Anderson.
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Hotels in Turin
I suggest the Turin Palace Hotel in the centre next to Porta Nuova station. In Paris, see hotels near the Gare de Lyon in Paris.
