Ride the train to the Balkans

A train journey across Europe from the UK to Sarajevo is a real adventure, yet it's safe, comfortable and affordable.  You can leave London in the morning on day 1 and arrive in Sarajevo in the early evening of day 2, travelling via Paris, Stuttgart and Zagreb as shown on the route map below.  This page explains how.

Train times, tickets & information

  London to Sarajevo & Mostar by train

  Hotels in Sarajevo, Mostar & Bosnia

  Useful country information

On other pages

  Sarajevo to Mostar by train

  General information about train travel in Europe

  Luggage   Taking bikes   Taking dogs

Useful country information

London to Sarajevo & Mostar

London ► Sarajevo & Mostar

• Days 1-2, travel from London to Zagreb by train, as shown on the London to Croatia page.

• Day 3, travel from Zagreb to Sarajevo:

  Here's the problem:

  Until 2016 a daily train ran from Zagreb to Sarajevo, using elderly communist-era carriages.  It was about to become a modern Bosnian Talgo train, when a disagreement between Bosnian and Croatian Railways stopped it.  There are now no trains across the border from Croatia into Bosnia, Bosnia is cut off from the rest of the European rail network.  However, initially the train journey remained possible if you took a taxi across the border.

  However, it got worse in 2025:  There's now a gap in train service within Bosnia.  ŽRS (zrs-rs.com) runs from Dobrljin near the Croatian border through Banja Luka to Doboj, see the route map below.  However, the other Bosnian railway operator, ŽFBH (www.zfbh.ba) now only runs to/from Maglaj, it no longer runs to/from Doboj.  And you wonder why we talk about 'Balkanisation'?  I'd really like to give these so-called railway managers a kick up the backside.

  So unfortunately, you have to take a bus

  You'll usually find these buses run daily:

  Leave Zagreb bus station at 12:30, arriving Sarajevo bus station 20:55.

  Leave Zagreb bus station at 16:45, arriving Sarajevo bus station 23:55.

  The fare is around €40.

  Buy tickets at  www.flixbus.com.

  Zagreb bus station is an 18 minute 1.3 km walk from Zagreb station.

• Day 4, travel from Sarajevo to Mostar by train, an incredibly scenic train ride taking just 1h55.

  There are two trains per day, see the Sarajevo to Mostar by train page for times & fares.

Mostar & Sarajevo ► London

• Day 0, travel from Mostar to Sarajevo, an incredibly scenic train ride which takes just 1h55.

  There are two trains per day, see the Mostar to Sarajevo by train page for times & fares.  Stay overnight in Sarajevo.

• Day 1, travel from Sarajevo to Zagreb:

  Because of Balkan railway incompetence, you'll need to take a bus.

  Leave Sarajevo bus station at 09:30, arriving Zagreb bus station 17:00.

  Leave Sarajevo bus station at 12:30, arriving Zagreb bus station 20:55.

  The fare is around €40.

  Buy tickets at www.flixbus.com.

  From Zagreb bus station it's an 18 minute 1.3 km walk to Zagreb station.

• Stay overnight in Zagreb

  If you take the morning bus, a same-day connection with the sleeper to Stuttgart/Zurich is theoretically possible, but I would play safe and spend a night in Zagreb, a lovely city to visit.  I suggest the historic Esplanade Hotel, Palace Hotel or Central Hotel, all near the station with good reviews.

• Day 2-3, travel from Zagreb to London by train, as shown on the London to Croatia page.

How to buy tickets

• See the London to Croatia page for fares & how to buy tickets from London to Zagreb.

• Sarajevo to Mostar is also very inexpensive, see the Sarajevo to Mostar page.

London to Sarajevo via Budapest or Belgrade

Sadly, the Budapest to Sarajevo and Belgrade to Sarajevo trains are discontinued from 9 December 2012, due to massive cuts to services in Croatia.

Sarajevo station

There is no bureau de change, ATM or left luggage facility at the station.  However, there's a left luggage office inside the nearby bus station and an ATM outside the bus station.  Left luggage costs 2 BAM per item for the first hour, 1 BAM per item for each following hour.  To reach the bus station, walk out of the station and turn right, walk in front of the Post Office and turn right again, and there's the bus station in front of you.  There is tram stop right outside the station, and tram number 1 runs in a loop to the centre of the old town and back, passing the Latin Bridge, site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914. Tickets are available from kiosks at the tram stop, and must be stamped when you board the tram.  With thanks to traveller Ivor Morgan.

Sarajevo station exterior.  Photo courtesy of Joe Grey.

Inside Sarajevo station.  Courtesy Krzysztof Sokol		Talgo train at Sarajevo.

Route map

There are currently no trains across the Croatia/Bosnia border between Sunja & Dobrljin, or between Doboj & Maglaj.

If you want to try taking the train on this route, Croatian Railways (www.hzpp.hr) run trains Zagreb-Sunja. ŽRS (zrs-rs.com) run trains Dobrljin-Banja Luka-Doboj.  ŽFBH (www.zfbh.ba) run trains Maglaj-Sarajevo and Sarajevo-Mostar.  What a shambles!

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Guidebooks

You should take a good guidebook.  I think that the Lonely Planets and the Rough Guides are easily the best for the independent traveller.  Both guides have plenty of background historical and cultural information, plus lots of practical information.  You won't regret buying one of these guides!

Click the images to buy at Amazon

My own book, an essential handbook for train travel to Europe based on this website called The Man in Seat 61, was published in June 2008 with a new edition in April 2010, and is available from Amazon.co.uk with shipping worldwide.

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Find hotels in Bosnia

Backpacker hostels

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & other tips

Always take out travel insurance

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

  www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.

  www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a European mobile data package and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list.  There's no need to buy a physical SIM card!  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  Why you need a VPN

When travelling you may use free public WiFi which is often insecure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using this link you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I also get some commission to help support this site.

Carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, hotel bookings and Interrail or Eurail passes are often now held on your mobile phone.  You daren't let it run out of power, and you can't always rely on the phone's internal battery or on being near a power outlet.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or buy from Amazon.com.

Touring cities?  Use hill walking shoes!

One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa.  They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities.  My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!

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