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The new SGR trains link Nairobi & Mombasa in 4h30. Courtesy of Gatwiri Bundi
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Taking the train across Kenya
The old narrow-gauge Lunatic Express was the classic train between Nairobi & Mombasa, overnight in a sleeper. In 2017 it was replaced by a fast standard-gauge railway built with Chinese help, a new faster way to get between these cities, spotting big game while you travel! This page explains what you need to know to take the train around Kenya.
Train times, fares & information
Nairobi-Dar es Salaam
& Mombasa-Dar es Salaam
Useful country
information - visas, currency, etc.
Hotels in
Nairobi or Mombasa Hotel search.
On other pages
Train service Dar
es Salaam - Kigoma & Mwanza
Train service Dar
es Salaam - Kapiri Mposhi
Train service Kapiri Mposhi -
Livingstone (-Vic Falls)
Train service
Victoria Falls - Bulawayo
Useful country information
Nairobi to Mombasa by train
The new Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) opened 31 May 2017, and the old colonial-era metre-gauge Lunatic Express overnight sleeper is no more. Passenger trains called the Madaraka Express now take just 4h30, operating at up to 120 km/h (75 mph) with 1,200 seats per train.
County = Inter-County, calls at intermediate stations.
Express = non-stop. See the Kenya Railways facebook page.
Night = non-stop. Seating only, does not have sleeping berths.
Location of Nairobi SGR Terminus. Location of Mombasa SGR Terminus. The new stations are some way out of town compared to the old stations.
See detailed map of the Nairobi-Mombassa Standard Gauge Railway, zoom in to see station locations.
Children under 3 travel free, no ticket needed. Children under 11 pay half fare.
Local train between Nairobi Central & Nairobi Terminus
A metre-gauge connecting train links the old Nairobi central station with the new Nairobi SGR Terminus as follows:
Nairobi central station depart 06:35, Nairobi Terminus arrive 07:03. And Nairobi central station depart 12:00, Nairobi Terminus arrive 12:28.
Nairobi Terminus depart 14:35, Nairobi Central station arrive 15:13. And Nairobi Terminus depart 20:15, Nairobi central station arrive 21:00.
You can check these times at krc.co.ke/the-nairobi-commuter-rail.
How to buy tickets
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Option 1, book online at www.bookaway.com - easiest way
You can buy tickets online through reliable online agency www.bookaway.com, this is the easiest option for visitors to Kenya.
Bookaway.com take Kenya Railways bookings a maximum of 6 months ahead and a minimum of 72 hours before departure.
You are sent an email with the necessary booking codes to retrieve a boarding pass from the self-service check-in machines at the station. It only takes a few minutes to print your boarding pass, although they recommend arriving 1½ hours before departure for a smooth check-in.
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Option 2, arrange through www.eastafricashuttles.com
You can also buy by emailing reliable local travel agency www.eastafricashuttles.com.
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Option 3, buy at the station
Tickets are sold at the SGR Terminus station for today and the following 4 days.
From 1 February 2023, only debit & credit cards (or M-Pesa) are accepted, payment can no longer by made in cash.
Ticket sales cease 20 minutes before the train departure.
You cannot buy SGR tickets at the old Nairobi central station or the old Mombasa central station, only at the new SGR Terminus stations. The Kenya Railways Facebook page suggests that the trains often leave fully-booked in economy class, but with first class seats usually available.
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Option 4, book online with Kenya Railways, but there's a catch...
Kenya Railways started selling tickets online in January 2018 at metickets.krc.co.ke. Unfortunately, they only take payment through the M-Pesa mobile phone system, not by credit card. You can buy tickets online this way if you get a Kenyan SIM cards and open an M-pesa account as explained in option 4 below, but what a pallaver.
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Option 5, book by text with a mobile phone
1. Get a Kenyan SIM card for your phone for the Safaricom network when you arrive in Kenya, for as little as 200 shillings ($2).
2. Open an M-pesa account with a local M-pesa agent, you find these all over the place. M-pesa means Mobile-Money in Swahili. You pay the agent money and he sends it to your mobile phone M-pesa account.
3. To book the train, dial the USSD code *639#
4. Select booking option, departing station, destination, travel date, class and number of passengers. You can book up to a maximum of 5 passengers in one transaction. Enter passenger details, meaning the full names and passport numbers. For children indicate child. Select payment option.
5. You will receive the prompts Pay now, Pay late or Exit. When making payment, enter the amount specified and enter your M-pesa account PIN. You will receive a payment confirmation message, followed by a booking confirmation which will confirm the status of the transaction by showing the destination station, departure time, date of travel, selected class of travel, the coach number and seat number.
6. You need to print the ticket at the self service machines at the station or get the ticket from the special counter for M-pesa transactions. You can collect the ticket either on the day of travel or any day beforehand.
What are the new SGR trains like?
The SGR uses modern air-conditioned cars made in China. 1st class has spacious reclining seats arranged 2+2 across the car width, with fold-out tray tables and power sockets for laptops & mobiles. Complimentary water is available. Standard has seats arranged 2+3 across the car width. There is a buffet car with table seating area serving drinks and snacks, reportedly now restricted to 1st class passengers only.
There are strict security controls before boarding, glass bottle and metal tools such as Swiss army knives are not allowed.
Travellers' reports
Traveller Josue Devarie reports from early 2020: "My wife and I took the SGR "Inter-county" train from Mombasa to Voi one day, then from Voi to Nairobi next day. Both trains ran like clockwork. We were in standard class and don't see the need to upgrade. Snack cart passed twice on the second day. Really nice ride with good views and lots of friendly locals. In Nairobi, staff showed the way to the connecting train to the old station (we had other plans, though).
I was going to try creating a M-pesa account to buy the tickets but our Airbnb host in Mombasa bought them for us. He said it was fairly simple, that the online booking was working properly, and that trains do sell out sometimes. Very important to have not only the order confirmation number, but also the telephone number used, to claim your tickets at the machines. We had to wait some time for the staff to help us. Another reason to arrive to the station with plenty of time, specially the big ones like Mombasa and Nairobi (keeping in mind the possibility of awful traffic to get there, and then the multiple security checkpoints)."
Traveller Gatwiri Bundi reports from a trip in the first weeks of operation: "I took the train to & from Mombasa. There is a shuttle train service from the old Nairobi Railway Station to the Nairobi SGR Terminus. I to0k the one at 6am, there is another at 7am, cost is 100 KES. ($1). At the SGR station you go through a police check and then to the ticket office to buy a ticket to Mombasa. You then go through baggage screening and into the waiting lounge. Boarding started at 8:30am, 30 minutes to departure. You go through automatic ticket gates onto the platforms - keep your ticket as you'll need it to leave the station at the other end. The train leaves at exactly 9 am. I used economy class. The seats are arranged in a “look at me, I look at you” set up, as we call it. It opens up communication and you can talk with your friends and fellow travellers, or you can ignore them. However, there is enough legroom for tall passengers. I went to the first class coaches, the seats can be rotated so people travelling together can talk. It is advisable for a traveller to carry provisions. The restaurant is operational, but since it is a short trip (4.5 hrs) a proper breakfast at home or your own packed lunch will help. The service caters to 1000+ customers, so it can be a long wait for food, especially in the last carriages. There is a trolley service, serving coffee and tea, soda, alcohol, sandwiches and maandazi (a Kenyan pastry). I still wouldn’t mind using first class if I could. It is very comfortable. The economy class carriages hold 118 passengers, while first class holds 72. The big windows allow a view of the countryside, especially for game viewing at Kapiti plains and Tsavo National Park. The express train from Nairobi makes a 10 min stop at Mtito Andei station to allow the train from Mombasa to pass. This is at the halfway point of the trip. We arrived in Mombasa at 13:40 pm. On exit, there were shuttle buses, taxis and tuk tuks. The access road to the Mombasa terminus is still under construction, so with the rain, we had a challenge getting to the station for the return trip. Nothing drastic, just extra unplanned exercise in the morning. The procedure is the same as in Nairobi, Police check, ticket purchase, luggage scan, waiting lounge, ticket gates and boarding at 8:30 am. I had used a taxi. However, I hear that there is a shuttle from the Mombasa railway station to the terminus for passengers. Again, travellers enjoy great views of wildlife in the parks. Once in Nairobi, there is a commuter train at 50 KES ($0.5) into Nairobi CBD on the old metre railway line that terminates at the Nairobi Railway Station. Travellers can also take public transport (matatus), shuttles or taxis depending on their needs."
Nairobi to Kisumu by train
The Nairobi to Kisumu sleeper train was cancelled in May 2012 and has not run since. However, in late 2021 the metre-gauge track has been repaired and the so-called Kisumu Safari train now runs from Nairobi every Friday night, returning every Sunday night.
First & economy class with smartly-refurbished carriages, first class converts to sleepers in 2 & 4 berth compartments, although it is not clear if bedding is provided, possibly not.
Check locally, and if you have any more feedback, please email me.
There is no passenger train service into Uganda at the present time, so see the alternative bus service.
How to buy tickets
Buy tickets at the station (cash & cards accepted), or call +254 (0)115 169 759.
Or try contacting www.eastafricashuttles.com (feedback appreciated).
Traveller Sander Hartkamp reports (2023): "I ended up contacting the in-house travel agent of my Nairobi hotel about the ticket. They reserved a ticket for me, but I still had to pick them up from the Nairobi Central Station Ticket Office and pay in person with my passport present. It turns out that early reservation is not necessary, even on the day of departure there were seats/berths left available for purchase. However, I would recommend picking up all tickets at the Nairobi central station if possible, as the Kisumu booking desk was very chaotic."
Nairobi to Nanyuki by train
Kenya Railways are now running a weekly train on the 177 km metre-gauge route from Nairobi to Nanyuki, next to Mt Kenya and a good base for hiking. The line dates from 1913, completed to Nanyuki in 1931.
First & economy class with smartly-refurbished carriages. There's no catering, so bring your own food & drink.
Check times locally, and if you have any more feedback, please email me.
There is no passenger train service into Uganda at the present time, so see the alternative bus service.
How to buy tickets
Buy tickets at the station (cash & cards accepted), or call +254 (0)115 169 759.
Or try contacting www.eastafricashuttles.com (feedback appreciated).
Travellers' reports
Traveller Charlotte Benson-Goring took this train in 2022: "My husband and I took the 9am train from Nanyuki to Nairobi in July 2022. We tried to book tickets a few days in advance but were told they could only be purchased at the station on the day of travel, which we did quickly and easily on the Sunday using m-pesa (we had set up an m-pesa account when we bought a Kenyan SIM card). The station also accepts cash & cards. We booked first class seats which meant we had a very comfortable private cabin. The cabin had a raised bed, lower bed/seat (3 seats across), basin, drinking water tap, wardrobe and fan. We stored our luggage on the raised bed and spread out comfortably on the lower bed. The first class seats cost us Ksh.1000 (around £7) per person. The alternative is second class, Ksh.200 (around £1.40) per person. The loo paper ran out quickly, so it is worth bringing your own. The train takes a little over 7 hours between Nanyuki (there is only one station in Nanyuki, in the town centre) and Nairobi (the central station in the CBD), stopping at various stations along the way. We did not see a food cart but had packed our own lunch and snacks so didn’t have a need for one. The train passes through beautiful Kenyan countryside, with views of Mount Kenyan and the Aberdares, and we very much enjoyed the journey."
Kenya to Uganda
The railway from Nairobi to Kampala is non-operational, at least as far as passenger trains are concerned. But there are bus services as follows:
Nairobi - Kampala (Uganda) by bus
Several reputable bus companies ply this route, each with several buses daily, journey time around 13 hours: Mash Poa (masheastafrica.com), Modern Coast Express (www.modern.co.ke), Easy Coach and Kampala Coach. Kalita bus is reportedly of lower quality. Mash Poa has air-con buses, running overnight, recommended. Feedback on any of these bus services would be welcome.
Traveller Alex Wyse reports on a Kampala to Nairobi bus ride with Modern Coast Express: I sprung for the First Class seat, and though it was probably worth the extra $6 (noticeably bigger and reclined to a very comfortable position, slightly more leg room), next time I'll save and do economy since the seats appear very nice. In my opinion, the jump from First to VIP is not worth it, just observing those seats. All seats have outlets that work, and passengers are given a bottle of water and a small pack of nuts at the beginning. During the ride, the driver plays music, but most of the time it's calm enough. The bus left right on time and the ride was smooth. Crossing the border at Busia is easy and you can obtain a Kenyan visa on arrival. We probably stopped 4 or 5 times in total. At the border stop (it's only about 3 hours from Kampala) there is more than enough time to make a "short call" and get a snack. We stopped for lunch in Eldoret around 13:30 at a little Somali diner. We pulled into Nairobi a hair before 19:30, making the trip a little over 13 hours in total. You arrive in Nairobi a little out of town on Mombasa Road, and there are plenty of special hire taxis waiting to take you (about the only reasonable thing to do unless you have someone waiting for you).
As far as I know, buses leave from the same place in Nairobi for Kampala at both
07:00 and 09:00 on all days. Though I heard there were no more night buses in
Kenya after the Al-Shabab attacks last year, Modern runs a bus from Kampala
departing at 12:30 in the morning, which would put you in Nairobi a little after
midday. Not sure about westbound night buses. All in all a good
experience, and a good cheap to mid-level option for
getting between these cities.
Kenya to Tanzania
Mombasa (Kenya) - Dar es Salaam (Tanzania) by bus
Tahmeed Express operate buses between Mombasa and Dar es Salaam, with departures from Mombasa at 05:15 & 05:45, journey time around 9h15.
Fare around 1,700 shillings.
Coaches depart from Bibi - Wa Shafi Street which runs parallel to Jomo Kenyatta Avenue (one of Mombasa's major roads), taxi drivers know the departure points. Tahmeed have offices in both streets.
Bookings can also be made online at www.tahmeedexpress.com or by phone at 0415010400.
Nairobi - Arusha - Dar es Salaam (Tanzania) bus service
Akambabus used to run a daily bus departing Nairobi at 06:30 and arriving Dar es Salaam at 21:00. Fare in region of 3,200 Kenyan shillings or 38,000 Tanzanian shillings (£22/$38). They have folded, it's not clear if anyone else has taken over.
riverside-shuttle.com and marangushuttles.com both operate small buses between Nairobi and Arusha twice a day with departures from both Nairobi and Arusha around 08:00 & 14:00, journey time 6h, fare US$20-$35.
Feedback on any of these bus services would be welcome.
For onward train travel to Zambia, Zimbabwe & South Africa see the Zambia & Tanzania page, Zimbabwe page & South Africa page.
Guidebooks
I
strongly recommend investing in a good guidebook - which for serious independent
travellers means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough
Guide. Both provide an excellent level of practical
information and historical background.
Click here to buy the Lonely Planet guide to Kenya or here to buy the Rough Guide to Kenya at Amazon.
Hotels in Nairobi & Kenya
Backpacker
hostels
www.hostelworld.com: If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels. Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.
Flights to Kenya
Overland travel by train & bus around Africa is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground! But a long-haul flight might be unavoidable to reach Kenya in the first place. For flights to Nairobi, start with Skyscanner.
Travel insurance & other tips
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Always take out travel insurance
Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover. It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit. An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself. Here are some suggested insurers. Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.
www.staysure.co.uk
offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & gets 4.7 out of 5 on
Trustpilot.
www.columbusdirect.com
is also a well-know brand.
If you live in the USA try
Travel Guard USA.
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Get an eSIM with mobile data package
Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected. Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list. Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.
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Get a Curve card for foreign travel
Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing. The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.
How it works: 1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader. The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out). I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.
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Get a VPN for safe browsing. Why you need a VPN
When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure. A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi. It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply. See VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription. I get a small commission to help support this site.
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Carry an Anker powerbank
Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged. I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet. Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from buy from Amazon.com.